Visitors' Comments on
Puerto Escondido

Salt Water Fishing

Douglas S. Dunham
206.292.9090 FAX 206.292.9736
d_dunham@ix.netcom.com
August 1999

Looking for a Rental for Jan-Apr 2000

Andrea Wood
northwoods@nidlink.com
208-777-9618 (home)
662 Coles Loop, Post Falls, ID 83854 U.S.A.
August 1999

Bitter about Puerto Escondido

I've been living in Puerto on and off probably around, close to thirty years, you may have known my father, who is buried there coincidentally, Ted Mowers, Aida the snakes husband, you must know Aida Mowers? How long did you say you've been kicking around this place? My family is probably one of the first to arrive here from a hell of a lot better places, whatever possessed my father to move to this place is beyond me, but that's neither here nor there, he's dead and buried there as of April 87', fool that he was, Ted", I wouldn't recommend this place to anyone who is actually serious about living in Mexico, don't bring anything here that you can't afford to lose, including your life, I know lot's of dead people that'll tell you that, the problem is getting in touch with them.

What should I tell you about this stinky little place with pretty beaches and major personal problems.

I'll recommend it to anyone who likes to get drunk, once you get to see the place for what it really is, if you weren't an alcy when you came here you will be one when you leave.

Most of the people that live here, quite a lot of poor Canadians that can't afford or else are too stupid to find a better place are people that either can't go home for some reason or another, or just had one mushroom too many.

Oh, it's a lovely place on the surface, almost paradise except I don't recall too many snakes in paradise, and this place is full of them, buy a piece of property or marry one of the gold diggers from around here and you'll see. By the way I wouldn't hold very high hopes of getting anything back out of the place, what you bring here you had better be prepared to part with.

I guess you could say I'm not a big fan, that's probably what it sounds like, but I keep going back, guess you could say I'm a sucker for punishment, not to mention I'm not very smart.

My bottom line is bring lot's of money and expect to use it all, try to use it yourself before someone else scams you out of it and don't expect too many people to help you around here when the chips are down, unless it's for an ulterior motive. Not too many sincere people living here, and that's a fact, I think the last one I knew was my Dad, and he's twelve years dead and buried.

I don't really have a lot of good things to say about Puerto, the beaches are nice sometimes, but really that's about it, it's a damn good place to lose things dear to you and get a lot of disrespect, very little care for anything other than your pesos. That's Puerto Jodido, some people are o.k. but if take a close enough look, not too many people last here. Just try to enjoy the beaches and sometimes cheap booze, and smile while they stick it to you, they really like that.

Long time F.O.P.E., I won't give my definition of what that means, have a good time, and be nice to these people even if they are just looking for an opportunity to screw you.

bye for now,
Roky
roky@pop3.sprint.ca
August 1999

African Communities

I am having a hard time finding info on the costa chica. can you help me in my search.

What pueblos constitues the costa chica???? Do you know of any web sites or books that discuss this part of Oaxaca, and Guerrero?, in detail....

Monica
monib@mindspring.com
August 1999

Costa Chica refers to all of the Guerreran coast and most of the Oaxacan coast (as far east as Huatulco). I recall reading somewhere about black communities that came about due to shipwrecked slave ships. I don't have the specifics, but it seems like there was one such community near one of the lagoons around Puerto Escondido. These descendents are a definite minority, not comprising a significant portion of the area population. Perhaps another reader can offer more information. -Tom

About Crime in Puerto Escondido

Most parts of Oaxaca are third world. This includes Puerto Escondido, just take a trip up into the mountains on one of the many beautiful dirt roads the government strives to perfect? With poverty also comes crime. If you haven't eaten in several days what would you do? Yes there are crimes in Puerto Escondido as there are crimes everywhere else in the world. Take it from a seasoned veteran, play it smart and you will not in most cases have any trouble, i.e. don't wander off of the beaten path unless you are with someone who knows the territory, when you're finding your way home on one of those drunken nights, (trust me there will be many of those) stay away from dangerous areas; common sense: dark alleys, Zicatela beach by the rocks, etc.

Remember Mexico is in most places is underdeveloped and in some cases even third world. Are your kids at the age of 7 selling gum to help bring money into the house? Puerto Escondido is no different.

On the contrary, I've found the majority of people living in Puerto Escondido much more friendly and social than normal American citizens. This even despite the large majority being impoverished.

Play it safe in Puerto and you will not be the target of any crime, as is anywhere else. Other than that hope to see you there! Until then, keep it "tranquilo."

Best wishes,
Adam A. Praleikas
dvbowers@seidata.com
August 1999

Casa de los Gringos Locos

Puerto Escondido is a magical place. It's one of those places on earth that has a different kind of energy. Call it "love in the air" call it what you will. Whatever, it is it's extraordinary. Any doubts, just ask anyone whose ever visited Puerto if they plan on returning. The answer will be a definite yes.

Puerto Escondido is an international meeting place. I personally have met people, mostly beautiful women, from places such as Italy, Canada, Argentina, United States, Austria, and Germany to name a few. Puerto has this 60's, San Francisco, Bohemian type of feel to it. You just have to experience it to understand. Although I live in Ohio my heart is always there in Puerto. If you're looking for romance, excitement or just anything what better place to look for it than in Puerto. I promise you will not be disappointed. If you're there November through January hit the adoquin (main tourist area) and ask Rene at Central Surf, or Jorge at Cocos for Adam or ask the taxi for "la casa de los gringos locos" and we can go party all night long!

Best wishes,
Adam A. Praleikas
dvbowers@seidata.com
August 1999

Puerto Angel and Puerto Escondido by Bus

Heading from Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido we took La Estrella Roja del Sureste from the second class bus terminal, hoping to duplicate the "trip" in the Oaxacan Bus adventure. Twenty years have changed things - it was a brand spanking new red Mercedes bus with padded reclining seats. Seven hours and 70 pesos and we were in Puerto Escondido.

We stayed at Beach Hotel Ines which was an excellent deal. There were no problems encountered at Puerto Escondido by my group, although I sure heard about them from others. The beach at Zicatela was pretty empty, the whole place somewhat devoid of tourists. I don't know if at was all the bad PR Puerto Escondido had been receiving or just the fact that everyone may have been in Oaxaca at La Guelaguetza.

Next we headed over to Puerto Angel using Estrella Blanca. I found Puerto Angel to be much more exotic than Escondido, the circular bay and surrounding hills creating an impressive vista. Contrary to some of the guidebooks, the beach was spotless and the water crystal clear. We stayed at Posada Canon Devata a naturalistic tropical paradise. It is highly recommended.

While at Puerto Angel I talked to a number of the locals - all assured me that there was a conscious effort on the part of the community to keep the problems out. At no time did we ever encounter any difficulties - we even walked back from Zipolite at night, something the guide books recommend against.

At Levyis and Vicente, Playa Panteón, we arranged for a boat to take us east along the coast - some of the most spectacular scenery I've every seen anywhere.

Just wanted to point out some positive things about Oaxaca to counteract so much bad publicity.

Gene Paull
Brownsville, Texas
paullgj@UTB1.UTB.EDU
August 1999

Necesita Información y Ayuda

En estos momentos no me encuentro en Costa Rica. Me encuentro en New Jersey en U.S.A.. pero en Diciembre regreso a mi pais. Asi que me gustaría saber lo más pronto posible acreca de Puerto Escondido para mudarme lo más pronto posible! Ademas me gustaría preguntarte acerca de las oportunidades de trabajo por allá para un joven de 21 años que habla Inglés. Conocimiento en programas de computadora (Windows, Power Point, Excel, etc.) y buena presentación!

Te voy a agradecer cualquier informacion que me puedas brindar!

Javier Rivera
KEALOHILANI@prodigy.net
July 25, 1999

Memorable Experience

I visited Puerto Escondido in May of 1999, and absolutely adored the place. I was greatly missing the place, so I decided to check the internet to find some pictures and stumbled on this web page. I think it's a great thing to have, it gives us the opportunity to keep up to date on what's going on, and it also gives us a chance to read about other people's experience.

In May, myself, as well as a group of 16 others were in Puerto Escondido to do an eye clinic in conjunction with Friends of Puerto Escondido. Our group consisted of 8 doctors, 1 priest, 1 lawyer, and the rest of us were students. Not only was it challenging to find the right prescription for each person who came through, but it was the most rewarding experience I've ever been part of. Our clinic helped over 1200 people see the world a bit better and brighter.

Through this unique experience, we made many friends. Lisa, who provided us with 3 meals a day and a breathtaking view of the ocean from her restaurant, Hotel Lauren, and the staff for the wonderfully comfortable accommodations and hospitality, our drivers, the staff from Friends of Puerto Escondido, as well as the representatives of the Lion's Club. The interpreters we had to help us out during the clinic were also very helpful and amazingly patient with us, and many thanks to all the others I'm forgetting to mention. Hats off to everyone who helped make our clinic the success it turned out to be. We could never had done it without them.

The city was beautiful, one of the cleanest and most enjoyable places I've ever visited. The food was delicious and the drinks were the best I've ever had (a little on the strong side, but great just the same). I would definitely go back in a heart beat, and who knows, in a few years we may go back to do another eye clinic. The memories of this trip will live on forever in my heart and mind.

Many thanks,

Kimberly O'Brien
929078@ican.net
Cornwall, Ontario, Canada
July 1999

Where to Stay, Work, Learn Spanish?

I have decided to return in late November or early December for 4 months. What I am looking for is some tips on finding work in Puerto and cheap living arrangements. I would prefer to stay in town or close to Zicatela beach also I need to improve my Spanish, can you suggest anywhere?

Well Tom I must say that I was pleasantly surprised to find all this info in P.E. and Oaxaca. I'm getting excited just thinking about my return.

When I first arrived in Puerto, Paul the owner of Buena Vista on Zicatela said to me "you'll be back"(so did everyone else actually!) And so I shall.

Keep updating the site it's great to hear new gossip.

Anne Merrilees
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
amerrilees@hotmail .com
June 1999

Surfing Answers

Well, about your question on renting a surf board in Puerto Escondido, you can rent a surf board at the Central Surf, there are two shops with that name, one of them near the touristic walk street, and one at the beach of Zicatela (where there are the big waves to surf). But these places are not the only ones where you can rent a board; there are many others, you just need to look around a bit.

About some surf instructors, again, in the Central Surf you can talk with the owner or one of his brothers, they are good surfers, and they give leasons about surfing or bodyboarding.

There are some places on Zicatela beach where you can practice, where the waves are not so big, just ask locals about some of the recommended places to go. (use common sense, sometimes they make some jokes to foreigners, but they are nice if you treat them a little).

Max López
Vicerrectoría de Innovación Tecnológica e Internacionalización, ITESM
mlopez@itesm.mx
June 1999

Surfing Questions

Tom Penick
The Pacific Coast of Mexico
tom@tomzap.com
June 1999

Want Budget Accommodations

Having kept track of this web site and particularly the feedback from recent visitors, we are determined to spend some time in Puerto Angel and Puerto Escondido.

As we have to stretch our money (which we don't have a lot of) over quite a long period of time, we can't afford to stay in the more luxurious accommodation that is usually recommended on the internet. I am hoping you might have recommendations as to cheap accommodation - preferably clean and safe. I have found several recommendations in guide books, but would appreciate more current information as to prices and standards (including places not to stay, if applicable).

Any responses would be much appreciated. Many thanks in advance.

Jane Aitken
jane.aitken@mailcity.com
June 22, 1999

Thieves Target Guests of Villa Belmar

The regulars like us that have gotten to know many winter guests agree that the numbers were down in January 99, empty streets, empty cafes, empty shops. Thank God for Carmen's and Zipolite beach.

After 25 years of 2 to4 weeks in Mexico were found PE 8 years ago and we are booked thru 2001.

Yes the ladies were robbed at knife point and others from the hotel were but this had NOTHING to do with the hotel, just lack of enforcement on the beach.

The Hotel Inez were used for five years but when we started 4 weeks we wanted ocean view and larger rooms and I have to say it is quieter but that is due to the age of most of the guests and the ownership at the Villa Belmar. www.villabelmar.com

Genaro in the office makes you feel welcome when you arrive, during your stay and when you leave. Senor Belmar is a gracious host who lakes time to talk the history of the area, politics, and what ever is the topic of the day.

You will find everyone VERY helpful, grounds kept perfect, always expanding, maid service, laundry, lunch at the pool, and limited breakfast and lunch at the dining area at the office.

Expensive ?? I don't think so in relation to what we pay in the states. We take a monthly rate of about $ 750.00 US for the largest 2 room suite with full kitchen(the only two room suite) Our room is booked 2 years ahead so we can't get it until 2002 again so we went up to the top floor. For those who don't want stairs and a bit of a walk to the hotel from Carmens this is not the place. If you want to party late and make noise this is not the place. Taxi is a must after dark from restaurants to the hotel, there are several hundred yards to walk on a totally dark beach to the hotels lower entrance from Art and Harry's.

I can only suggest one try it if these comments fit what you want for a vacation.

Out of the way place to eat in PE. Believe it is called Adam's Chicken.. It is just across from the parking lot at the market, kind of near the appliance store. Chicken done on rotating racks and it is very tasty and served with rice and a coleslaw and they will get you a beer from down the street. Reasonable, very..Yes who likes taking a bus downtown but we enjoy this place each week.

Great town P.E. but you are a guest in this town and act accordingly, don't be the UGLY AMERICAN that I have seen in the high rise beach front hotels in other towns, keep PE mellow and laid back.

Place that I haven't noticed on the site is what is known as Grizzly's or if Double D doesn't mind we still call Crow's. Group of rather likeable guys and ladies. Great place for conversation on a hot afternoon and the coldest beer on the beach. Want to know where and what just ask them. I enjoy flying my kite down there and having a few cool ones. That will be our first place to check out next Jan 4. Watch for the rainbow colored bag kite coming down the beach.

As not everyone can be there on Jan. 1, I hope there are millennium parties for the entire month.

Take care and I will see you at Grizzly's or on the beach.

Marc
mjhalver@uslink.net
June 1999

Always on My Mind

One of my favorite memories is from another trip to Puerto Escondido in 1982: I was sitting on the beach with my Walkman (a new thing back then) when some little boys approached me and asked me what I was doing. I showed them the Walkman and explained that it made music. One of the boys looked at me curiously then picked up the wire to the headphones and put it against his ear as if he could hear the music that way. It was one of the sweetest and most innocent things I had ever seen. I'm sure those same little boys are grown now and are hip to all of the trends in the U.S. now thanks to satellite TV which I noticed had a big presence in P.E. during my last visit in 1993.

Puerto Escondido has grown up a lot since my first visit and has lost some of its innocence which made it so beautiful and appealing. But it is still a sparkling jewel and its laid back, no hassles attitude and mix of international visitors is not to be equaled anywhere.

Puerto Escondido will always have special place in my heart, just like a dear friend or relative!

N. Garcia
PazNG@aol.com
San Francisco, California
June 8, 1999

Want to Rent an Apartment

Daniel Butler
danilbruce@yahoo.com
June 1999

Currency Exchange

I enjoy reading your internet information on www.eden.com [now tomzap.com]. It's very well done.

Please tell me about money what to do? Should I use ATM-machines in Puerto Escondido or rather change money by using travelers cheques?

What I want to avoid is exchange rip-offs, therefore I want to know if it is a difference between the different kinds (American Express, or Thomas Cook etc.) of travelers cheques, or do they charge each cheque with a basis fee (like they did to me in South Africa; so you are in a bad situation, if you just took US$20s and so on). Can you give me advice? If I use ATM machines with a Visa-Card they charge for each transaction in Germany DM 10,- (US$ 5.26 (today)). If I use Visa in restaurants, there is no transaction fee. How is attitude to use credit cards in hotels/restaurants/shops?

Yours,
Hans-Heinrich Meyer zu Eppendorf
Dresden, Germany
hhmze@hotmail.com
June 1999

For visitors from the United States, the best way is to use an ATM card and withdraw pesos from the ATM machines. There is a small charge by our bank, maybe $1, and the rate of exchange is very good. The ATM machines accept credit cards as well, as you have said, but you are at the mercy of what the company issuing the card wishes to charge.

American Express travelers cheques are the most widely recognized. It would be best to exchange them for pesos at a bank. Money exchange houses sometimes offer reasonable rates as well. Airports usually don't offer particularly good rates of exchange. Most hotels and restaurants will accept AE cheques too, but the rate of exchange may not be as good. If you purchase a $20 US travelers cheque, you pay the service charge at the time of purchase. In Mexico, it is worth the same as $20 US cash usually, especially at a bank.

Keep track of your cheques. Losses that are not reported immediately may not be reimbursed.

Visa cards are widely accepted, especially in pricier hotels and restaurants. Establishments operating on tight budgets are not as enthusiastic about accepting credit cards because it takes so long for them to receive payment from the credit card company.

So for you I would suggest American Express travelers cheques, that you would exchange for pesos periodically at a bank. Try to conserve small change to use for small purchases from street vendors, etc., who won't be able to make change for a large bill (currency). If your hotel costs $50 US or more per night, I would pay for it with your Visa card. Use your Visa card for meals at this hotel and at pricier restaurants. Use your Visa card as a backup for cash if you run out of travelers checks.

Enjoy your trip.

Tom Penick
The Pacific Coast of Oaxaca
tom@tomzap.com

Photos on the Web

Liz Goodwin
liz.goodwin@ametek.com
May 1999

Announcement from Hotel Villa Sol/Days Inn

Looking for Mathew, Milo, and Claud   FOUND

Worried About Travel by Bus

Taly
cameron_099@hotmail.com
May 1999

Gina, the "Information Goddess"

Thank you

Lorna & Joe Kersey
kersey@island.net
May 1999

Anyone Know Paho Colonial Bungalows?

Thank you for your time. My husband & I will be celebrating our 15th wedding anniversary this fall (& my fortieth!) and we are planning on our first ever adult-only trip. If childcare still is an issue back up here in Canada for us come fall, we're contemplating bringing the kids. (12, 9 & 6) Would you say that there is calmish snorkeling & beginner surfing available in P.E.? Whether couple or family, we will be winging the bookings (i.e: flight last min, etc.) as we're on a farmer's frugal budget. Any opinions on villas/bungalows & kids? (We're normally campers so used to roughing it.) We'd probably go relive a visit to Angel, too & Oaxaca city. Thanks again.

Lee Mounsey
Oliver, British Columbia
Canada
email: osprey1.bc.sympatico.ca
May 1999

Friends of Puerto Escondido Begins Its 2^nd Season

The group has created an Emergency Response Team, which, in coordination with the state tourist office, can render support to any foreigner in an emergency situation. FOPE has established clear channels of communication with consular officials of many nations and has produced a valuable resource list for its members. The group has also been active in the larger community. Among its many activities: More than 22,000 pesos have been raised to support the work of Casa Hogar, the local orphanage. Bookshelves and books have been donated and installed in the Cultural Center, Casa de la Cultura, and a drive to provide the most requested books is an ongoing project.

Friends of Pto. Escondido meets the 2^nd Saturday of every month at Paul Cleaver's Tabachin del Puerto, located behind the Hotel Santa Fe, at 4 p.m. The next meeting will be June 12. Call Vicki Cole, 582-1673 for more information.

Dra. Beach
drabeach@ptoescondido.com.mx
my Home for Sale in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca
May 9, 1999

Memories, La Parilla del Gitano

I can still listen to a song, and look at photos, and it always brings mass tears to my eyes, that's the kind of effect this town has on me. That's where my friends were, and my life, and I would recommend that everyone visit Puerto just once and you'll consider it to be your home as well. I'm sure that many of the things I remember, have either changed or no longer exist. I remember going to Bananas and Tio Mac's on any given weekend, and then off to La Disco Bacocho, or El Tubo. I would going swimming at Coco's, or sneak into the pool at the Santa Fe. I miss my school, my friends, and just being a kid growing up in the most beautiful place on earth.

For anyone who may remember (this goes way back), my parents owned a restaurant, called La Parilla del Gitano (The Gypsy's Grill) right off of Perez Gasga. My parents being Robert and Mary Jane Taylor, we served American food, and welcomed all. I miss all the commotion of a weekend home from boarding school in Oaxaca, and seeing all the people, from places Id never heard of (I still have the huge guest book customers were given to write comments and stories of their homeland in, I look at it now and again, and wonder if any of them remember me, as much as I do them?)

I could ramble on forever about Puerto, but it's just one of those things where until you see it for yourself, you won't fully under... I was young and took the fact that I thought I would be there forever for granted, and now that I'm back in West Virginia, I couldn't miss anything more. So for those people who by chance remember me, my folks, or any of the places I mentioned, and just want to share stories, feel free to email me. Its been a long time away from home, and hopefully, I'll get back there, one day soon. Until then, keep my memory beautiful, and take care of my home for me.... All the love in the world...

Rachel Oliverio
latina88@webtv.net
May 1999

News From the Local Server

We will appreciate all comments from our visitors or from any people in the world who love this place. We will have a mailbox for comments next week.

Greetings,

Armando Ibarra
aibarra@ptoescondido.com.mx
results@ptoescondido.com.mx
April 1999

New Internet Service in Puerto Escondido

Dra. Beach
drabeach@ptoescondido.com.mx
my Home for Sale in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca
April 1999

As Long as The Sky is Blue

We stayed at the Flor de Maria during both of our visits, and recommend this wonderful hotel to anyone looking for an inexpensive, quality "paradise" hide-a-way. The rooms are comfortable and clean, [and cheap!.. we paid $35/double, w/maid service] the restaurant is 1st class, and the roof-top bar/pool area is a quiet, lazy oasis with the world's friendliest bartender, Felix. Mornings, we would usually breakfast at Carmen's almost directly across the road. It's fabulous!! There is really nothing else to say about this funky, little bakery [the other location is on Zicatela, and is probably the hottest breakfast/lunch spot on the beach.]

The beach, out the front door of the hotel and down the road about 50 yards, is among the nicest anywhere on the Pacific. Pictures do not do justice and this is one of the last places where the fishing boats pull right into the bay and sell their catch to the local merchants and tourists.

The seafood in Puerto is the best anywhere in the world. Our favorite restaurant is Junto al Mar. We would spend many, many hours at this beachside joint, enjoying drinks and food, often for lunch AND dinner. We get disbelief from friends when we tell them we had a hard time spending $25 for a whole evening of drinking and dining. There are many good restaurants in town [including a new Japanese/sushi restaurant on Zicatela] but Junto al Mar is world-class. Maria's, in the Hotel Flor de Maria, is also an excellent restaurant, serving Italian/steak/seafood specialties. And everyone should check out Paul's at the Hotel Tabuchin [behind the Santa Fe Hotel.] We had wonderful lunches here, and the host is an American long-time resident of Puerto. A very interesting fellow, and a great conversationalist. We are considering accommodations here on our next visit. Sunsets are awesome from the roof-tops of many places here, but we found the roof/bar/restaurant at the Hotel Arco Iris to be the most fun. Great margaritas too!

We walked and took taxi's everywhere. We never felt unsafe. We never experienced any unfriendly behavior or attitude from the locals. If we ever saw any unpleasantness it was from other tourists who would have been happier at a Club Med or maybe Disney World. The locals, whether in the service industry or merchants/shop owners, were never anything but polite and gracious. As for reports of increased crime, remember; A Little Common Sense Goes A Long Way!! Period.

I could go on and on, but Puerto Escondido is someplace that really needs to be experienced, not just read about.

If the big, corporate, commercial, crowded mega-resorts are your idea of a "Mexican vacation" then Puerto is not for you. If you're looking for relaxation and beauty and culture and real experience, you will have a hard time finding anywhere comparable.

Brian Drake
Minneapolis, MN
BDrake6969@aol.com
Mary Kalka
Minneapolis, MN
MaryC@aol.com

Puerto Escondido Review

Getting there: From Huatulco it's about 60 miles to Puerto Escondido. See previous comments on taking a cab from the airport. We paid $80 U.S. (the initial price was $100, but we hesitated and they came down 20 percent). It was still a rake-off but, with two of us to split the cost, it was worth it to get there and start relaxing. The ride is about an hour and a half. Other travelers recommend walking out to the highway and hailing a bus or a passing cab from town (town cabs are far cheaper than the airport ones). It's only about a block from the airport terminal to the highway; elsewhere in these pages there are cautions about walking on this road, but it didn't look too risky to me. On the way back to Huatulco we took a cab from the Santa Fe Hotel for 500 pesos, or about $50 US. I'm pretty sure that's the "official" rate from P.E., though of course it's all negotiable.

Eating: This time we checked out La Gota de Vida and El Cafecito on Zicatela and found them highly recommendable. At both restaurants we ate everything offered and had no problem. Conventional wisdom for U.S. travelers in Mexico says don't eat anything that isn't cooked unless you picked or peeled it yourself, but these and other restaurants (though not all) in Puerto Escondido take obvious pains with sanitation and are trustworthy. Check out the wonderful licuados (fruit smoothies) - they must make 30 varieties at La Gota. And they're nearly as ubiquitous and cheap as soda pop in the U.S. I also must put in another plug for my all-around favorite restaurant in P.E., La Galera on the top floor of the Arco Iris Hotel. It's not the fanciest, but the overall quality, price and variety of the food, the service, and the great view of the beach make it hard to beat.

Hotels: Based partly on a recommendation on these pages, we stayed at El Tabachin for part of the trip and really enjoyed it. It's just up the hill from and behind the Santa Fe, at the end of the short street that runs behind the latter. Not only were the accommodations great (fantastic view from the balcony of our room), so was the food. Best huevos rancheros I've ever had. The proprietor is an American who's lived there for 17 years. He and the staff were very congenial and helpful. We also checked out, though didn't stay at, the new Hotel Olas Altas along Zicatela. It looks like a good one in the nicer but not extravagant category; construction was just finishing up and they were offering a very enticing rate special. Big pool, airy if somewhat sterile-looking central court, clean rooms. Also looked at the Buena Vista on the recommendation of another traveler. It's up a considerable flight of steps off the beach road (look for the hotel's sign painted in an alleyway near Cabanas Olas Altas) but is said to be worth the climb for the accommodations, the ocean views, and the breeze. Staff we talked to spoke English and were very friendly.

Safety: Again, we had no problems. One interesting thing was that the much-touted floodlights along Zicatela beach stayed unlit during the week we were there. Personally, I was glad: Had they been on, the stars would not have been nearly so enjoyable. I wouldn't walk on any dark beach near a city anyway, here or there, so it was fine with me.

Mosquitoes: They're there, even in the dry season. At night they can invade your room and make sleep impossible. Even if your room has good screens they'll get in through gaps in the frames. Unless you have air conditioning, nights are usually too warm to seek refuge under the covers, so that's out. What to do? We found those slow-burning repellent coils work well, if you don't mind a little smoke in your room (sure it means breathing a pesticide, but it's not something you do every day all your life. Lighten up!). They're available in the pharmacies under the brand name Raidolitos. Or use mosquito netting, hung from the ceiling and draped over your bed. Most hotels I've been in don't offer nets, though often there will be hooks for hanging them, so you might want to bring your own (numerous suppliers on the worldwide web or buy them in P.E.). I haven't used netting myself but I'm taking one along next time I go.

All in all, Puerto Escondido is a great place to go if you're looking for a relaxed, low-key, relatively untouristed getaway with fantastic sun and surf. I'll be back there soon, for sure.

Ralph A Pribble
rpribble@juno.com
April 1999

Roads to Puerto Escondido

Have a nice trip and real fun.

Raúl Cruz López
Mexico City
rcrzl@yahoo.com
April 1999

Looking for Places to Rent

Looking for a Realtor

BRL84AD8@aol.com
April 1999

Looking for Surfing Magazine

Giuseppe Repetto
http://utenti.tripod.it/surfando
mailto giurepetto@iol.it
April 1999

'98 Tragedy and Flor de Maria

We have always resided at the Hotel Flor de Maria. A wonderful, economical dwelling with friendly staff, good food and Canadian proprietors. I highly recommend this place. Ask anyone for directions. Features roof top pool and lounging as well as a wet bar. In comparison to other 'snooty' hotels in Puerto, you will find this to be a '10'. Guests are cosmopolitan, of middle income and very friendly too! We paid for a two bed room at under $30 USD a night.

When you leave, please tip the help well, Maria will divide it amongst them.

Enjoy and Paz...

Jeremy and Heather
w7eme@qsl.net
April 1999

Reflections on Puerto Escondido

I was in Mexico in 93, and was only 21 then. I had just lost my Mom to cancer the year before. University, boyfriends, family, friends...nothing mattered, existing was a chore. On a whim, a friend and I decided to postpone our university careers, and catch a flight to Mexico. We drove through one of Manitoba's worst January storms to Minneapolis and got on the cheapest flight we could find to anywhere in Mexico. With one travel book, a bit of savings, very hopeless Spanish ,and absolutely no plans, we were on our way. We landed in Mazatlán, and for four months we bounced all over Mexico and Central America. Oh, the stories I could tell, and have told, over beers on so many cold winter nights...

And then, running short on funds, and feeling like we needed to stop somewhere, we headed once again for the coast. I had heard about Puerto, and somehow knew that that would be a good place to hunker down for a while. Little did I know that I would get stuck in this place forever...if only in my mind. My friend loved it too, but she had other spots in mind...after two weeks in Puerto, and all that time travelling together, we said our good-byes one sweltering March afternoon. As she pulled away on the Tres Estrella bus to Acapulco, I wondered how I could have made such a ridiculous decision...had the surfing caused too much brain damage already??? But then I turned, and glanced out over the coast line, the sun beamed through my soul, the smell of corn tortillas drifted through the breeze, and I new that although I was alone, everything I needed was right there, that moment in Puerto Escondido. This feeling has never left me.

Kirk Talent
kirktale@cadvision.com
March 1999

Hwy 175, Looking for a new Hideaway

I'm looking for a new spot on the coast this year. Something between Manzanillo and Zihuatanejo and Playa Azul geographically looks good. Do you know anything about the beach along there? Are there satisfactory accommodations? (comparable say to the Arcoiris in Pto E)

[But of course; Mar Vida in Barra de Navidad or Hotel Royale in Cuastecomates. - Tom]

Marshall
mstu@mailexcite.com
March 1999

Where's the Food?

One thing that disappointed me in Puerto this time was the quality of the food. On my previous trip I had very little money and cheap was more important than variety or quality. This time we had more money, and as we do a lot of Mexican-style cooking at home, I was looking for some taste delights. However, with the exception of a superb red snapper at Danny's Terrace, everything else was humdrum. Even that venerable staple of Mexican life -- refried beans -- were watery and flavourless. When you consider the freshness and variety of the food available in the Mercado, there seems to be no excuse for the dullness of the food along the tourist stretch. (I exclude the superb pastries at Carmen's from this critique; they are, as always, superb!) We even walked up to La Perla (near the new supermarket above highway 200) thinking that a place that caters to Mexicans might be better. Even here, the lobster was incredibly tough and the breaded jumbo shrimp was mainly batter.

On the subject of safety, we were untouched by any hint of crime. We walked from the Playa Principal to Playa Bacocho through a residential area and back via the lighthouse. We never felt unsafe, although we do agree with one of your other writers who writes that the police are pretty useless. At night they patrol the walking street in huge numbers but we didn't see any on the beaches. A local resident told us that when the police do walk along the beach they follow a predictable schedule, so it wouldn't take a criminal genius to get away with robbery.

Here's another suggestion: don't drive to the beach in the Laguna Chacaqua National Park unless you have a four-wheel drive vehicle with high road clearance (which, fortunately, we did). Once you turn off highway 200 there are no signs to the town and the road is 29 kilometres of sand. By the way, when you get to the town, don't bother asking one of the local fishermen for a tour of the lagoon unless you speak Spanish and you know what birds you're looking for. These men are fishermen and know very little about the other wildlife. Take a guided tour of Laguna Manialtepec, instead. Needless to say, the meal we had in this little town was dreadful, despite the fact that the red snapper and shrimp we ordered were probably caught only 100 metres from where we sat.

Two final thoughts. There is nothing nicer than sitting in a palapa after sunset, drinking happy hour Cuba libres, watching the kids play soccer under the new security lights and listening to the surf pound on the sand. Second, when we went up to the new market we discovered it was 90% empty. The locals seem to have simply smiled when the governor came to open the place and when he was gone they went back to their traditional stalls made of canvas, bamboo and leftover wood. Mexico has a deep sense of tradition and that's one of things we love about it. Governors and fancy new buildings come and go, but the wonderful people of Mexico go on forever.

Steve Lindt
London, Ontario, Canada
wolfie@execulink.com
March 1999

The "Villa"

As much as we loved our time in Puerto, we had a somewhat unpleasant experience I'd like to relate, so that others can be a little more "savvy" than we were. Last year, on one of our walks through town, I stopped to admire a lovely little house called "Casa Blanca", located on Calle a Puerto Angelito 204. It so happened that the owners, Ralph & Mina Lewis of Redway California, were in the yard, and invited us in to view her house, and asked us if we would be interested in renting next year (1999). Even though we had already paid a $100 U.S. deposit for another accommodation, we agreed between ourselves to forfeit the deposit, and rent the house; the location was ideal - midway to the main street of town and the beautiful Manzanillo Beach, and I wanted to experience "living like a local". Upon our return to Toronto, I immediately sent them a deposit of $100 U.S. (bank draft), as a gesture of good will, and our "gentlemans agreement".

Throughout the year, I did my best to maintain contact via letters, Christmas cards, long distance telephone calls, but had no response until late November, when I received a midnight telephone call from Mina - waking me from sleep to give me the "good news/bad news" scenario. The bad news (for us) was that they had the good fortune to rent the "Casa Blanca" for a year. The good news(??), they would give us their personal residence "The Villa", instead. We had not seen this house & had no idea of the location etc. but Mina assured me that if I liked her little "Casa Blanca", I would LOVE the "Villa". We felt that we were now "stuck" because our vacation was only 2 months away, we had forfeited our previous reservation, and it was high season...what success would we have in finding suitable alternate accommodation for the month? So we decided to wait & see, surely, their own private residence would be wonderful. The day before we arrived in Pto., we phoned the Lewis' representatives (Maritza & Alfonso Garcia), from Acapulco, to give details of our arrival, as Maritza would be taking us to this "VILLA". (I'm sure you can imagine where this is all leading.....)

The "villa" was in some God foresaken part of town, high in the hills behind the Santa Fe Hotel, and completely isolated; as Ralph had so slyly phrased it to me on the phone - "TRANQUIL". There had been no preparations made for our arrival - no linens, towels, beds not made up, no window curtains, outdoor furniture stacked in the living area (obviously the floors had not been swept/washed), and the house completely unaired. The worst part was the next morning, when in daylight, I was able to see the yard absolutely UNDULATING with ants and the walls inside the house crawling with other insects. I'm fully aware of the effects of nature in the tropics, and the effort required to keep control - clearly there had been no preparation for our arrival. We spent 1 night and returned the keys to Maritza Garcia, along with a 6 page letter to Ralph & Mina Lewis detailing all the above, & requesting the return of my deposit, plus the loss of my original deposit at the hotel. Of course, I am naive...after they arrived on the 15^th, and I finally managed to contact them by telephone, Mina calmly advised me that "that's not the way I do business", and further, that it was in fact, us, that had "broken the contract", because she had offered alternative accommodation.

The moral of this story, if there is one, is: Get your contract in writing; and be aware of with whom you are dealing. We did in fact manage to resurrect the remainder of our holiday, thanks to the ambiance of Minne's "Hotel Mayflower", and the interesting cross section of travelers she attracts from all over the globe.

Gloria Smith
terrygloria@webtv.net
March 1999

Robbed at Knifepoint

Here's my story:

BE CAREFUL in Paradise. Leave your cameras at home. Though it looks like a safe town because of the presence of the policia, the policia were anything but helpful when my friend and I were robbed by knifepoint in broad daylight. Last Friday, March 5 we were hiking up the stairs toward the lighthouse when three bambino banditos grabbed us from behind with a knife. While holding a knife to my friend's neck they grabbed his camera and backpack.. We chased after these teenaged bandits but the police in the Adoquin refused to give chase. We filed a report with the police (who spoke as much English as we did Spanish) who chuckled at our story: Stupid, rich Americans. We're rich and vacationing in their city; they are poor and can't afford to eat at the restaurant they're serving us at. Be careful.

Julie Meyer
jmeyer@uswebcks.com
March 1999

Spirits Dampened in Zipolite, Escondido Better

However, what was to come was worse...the third night of our stay we woke up at 4am to banditos stealing all our stuff. They took our backpacks which contained clothes, shoes, books and cameras... not a single picture of the trip as a result. Fortunately we all slept with our money belts under our pillows, or they would have gotten them too. We were very lucky we weren't physically harmed... when the banditos heard us wake up, they flew out the window. Now, don't get me wrong, Shambala is a beautiful place.. awesome food and friendly people. But I would seriously recommend sleeping up in the hammocks rather than the beachfront cabana. It has no locks when you are sleeping. I'm sure we were not the first to be robbed, nor the last.

The riptide in Zipolite is horrifying. We watched two people drown in the waters the second day there. As for the peace and magic everyone talks about...I couldn't find it anywhere. There were people everywhere and restaurants from one end of the beach to the other. It was not the Zipolite I had in mind at all.

We visited Mazunte, which is a 15 minute taxi away...now there was peace and magic!! It was much smaller. I would highly recommend visiting this paradise. And the turtle sanctuary is worth checking out too.

Then we decided to head back to Puerto Escondido where we stayed for the remaining week of our holiday. I would definitely visit PE again. We stayed on Playa Zicatela. We quickly became addicted to Carmen's pastries at La Cafecita (especially her mango pastry), and everything on the menu at La Gota da Vida. It has an excellent vegetarian menu!!! We stayed at Hotel Ines. It cost us $10 Canadian each per night (4 people sharing a room). It has a beautiful pool and the rooms are immaculate. In fact this room was only $2 more per night than the one in Zipolite (which had no private shower or toilet). We danced away a few nights to a salsa band at La Rumba.. a bar in town...lots of fun.

Even though we dealt with a lot of disaster this trip, I don't regret a single moment of it. Possessions can be replaced, but the memories and the stories are worth every lost item. For any of you heading off to these parts....be safe and enjoy.

schlack@islandnet.com
March 1999

Checking up on Paull

Paull has made many wonderful friends there and often goes fishing with Carlos Sanchez Mendez who has a fishing boat and also is the president of the sport fishing cooperative which operates the El Pescador restaurant. [The cooperative is an important new initiative in puerto escondido which is trying to establish itself as a centre of excellence for service and results in sports fishing. - Paull] While we were there most of the fishing expeditions had limited success, but after we returned home we heard that Peter Wilson of Halifax and Don Brillmaier of Wilsonsin caught a 550-pound marlin thirteen feet long. They all snacked on some of this delicious fish later.

We found the people to be very friendly...and honest. We were going on a walking tour with Gina (you probably know who I mean) and I forgot my purse in the taxi. Gina cooly called central dispatch and within five minutes the young taxi driver was back with my purse and everything intact. He received a reward! The tour was terrific and Gina is an energetic and informed guide. We thoroughly enjoyed it.

They were having a week-long celebration in Chila about a fifteen-minute drive from P.E. and we went to a spectacular fireworks display one evening and a rodeo another. There was always lots to do but relaxing in a cabana by the ocean or on the rooftop of the Flora de Maria with the pool, comfortable chairs and Felix (our amiable bartender) was often enjoyed.

Shirley and Ross Barkell
barkells@nrtco.net
March 1999

Comments from Holland

My friend worked in the Gulf of Campeche for about 8 weeks and then I decided to go to Mexico too for the holidays. I went after Christmas and we met in Mexico City, there we spent a few days, including new years eve which we spent in a restaurant with a Mariachi band, that was a nice experience. Friends from Holland were at Puerto Escondido and they called us in our hotel and asked us to come to Puerto Escondido for a few days. So we hired a car and went there in 2 days.

We drove from Mexico City to Acapulco and that was okay but then we took a short cut before Acapulco toward Puerto Escondido. That was not such a good idea, a very bad road. There were holes and mules and kids and pigs and suddenly even the road ended into a river. I thought there must a ferry or something but no, so we decided to cross after a small boy told us that we could he ran in front of us and so we made it. Later it became dark so we decided to stop and look for a hotel. The only thing we found was a posada at Cruz Grande a horrible place ,very dirty. There we had a meal at a restaurant, a very nice fish and a lot of beers. The next morning we left very early and finally arrived at Puerto Escondido.

From this trip at least I can say that we saw the real Mexico. We spent only a few days in Puerto Escondido but it was fantastic. The beach, the food; we went fishing and caught a sailfish of 2.20 meters and 35 kilo. We gave the fish to the waiters of the restaurant where we ate every day (the first one if you enter the main beach; I don't remember the name) and they prepared it for us in the evening. We drove back via Oaxaca, also a very nice city and then we had to go home. We are planning to go back in November also for the fishing tournament. Before we go I'll read the comments.

greetings from Holland
willfred sluis
willfred.sluis@bibl.hwb.nl
March 1999

Looking for Sister     *Have received phone number and found sister. Thank you.

Stefania Muti
s.muti@regione.vda.it
February 1999

Bring a Surfboard to Puerto?

Is it possible to buy "good" surfboards in Puerto Escondido or is it better to bring my own?

Torsten Dutschek
Torsten.Dutschek@BakerNet.com
Frankfurt, Germany
February 1999

Houses for Rent

For Rent spacious, private, self-contained suite, with large balcony and top floor terrace. Fully furnished, modern appliances, linen, towels, cookware. Pool, cababa, daily maid service. Rinconada/Bacocho clean, quiet, cool. Ten minutes walk to beaches. Available now for short or long term rent. US $300 /mo. negotiable.

David Collier
Fax reply only: (604) 688-5659
February 1999

Friends of Puerto Escondido News

Then on Jan. 9, the regular monthly meeting of the organization hosted the appearance of the U.S. and Canadian Consuls from Mexico City, as well as their consular agentas in Oaxaca. At least 100 foreigners attended a reception to introduce FOPE to the visiting embassy representatives and local Mexican officials. Individuals had the opportunity to meet with their country's representatives to discuss their concerns and to clarify the nature of the support and assistance that the embassy can offer to those resident in Mexico.

The next meeting of Friends of Puerto Escondido will be held on Feb. 13 at 4 P.M. at Instituto Bilingue. (The meetings are in English.) Call Vicki Cole at 2-1673 for further information.

Garnet Beach
drabeach@ptoescondido.com.mx
my Home for Sale in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca
February 1999

Some Current News From Puerto Escondido

It's important to put crime in its sociological perspective. The rise of the dollar against the peso (currently at 10.30 pesos/1 US dollar) makes travel to Mexico very attractive. Minimum wage in Oaxaca is less than $3.00 US per day. Puerto has developed into arguably the gem city of the Oaxacan coast, attracting not only tourists, but poor people from mountain communities (many of which are coffee producing and are feeling the effects of the substantial drop in coffee prices) who arrive in hopes of finding work. Tourists who walk alone on unpopulated stretches of beach carrying daypacks, wearing jewelry, and carrying more than 50 pesos may well be at risk of robbery. Be smart! The new lights along Zicatela and the Bahia Principal (Main Bay) have cut down on robberies at night, but it's as foolish to tempt fate and stroll the beach in unlighted areas as it would be to take a similar stroll along most US beaches I know.

With regard to money: There are four banks with ATMs. You'll get the best exchange rate with short lines. Don't forget your pin number.

A new group, "The Friends of Puerto Escondido", invites all foreigners to its ranks, whether they're just visiting or living in Puerto. It meets once a month, on the second Saturday at 4:00. Members and visitors share information about the "Best Of"... medical personnel, upholsterers, dentists, etc.... as well as warning of scams and sharing emergency contact information in ones country of origin, blood types (most Mexicans are O positive) and other helpful tips. The group also sponsors special events such as a sand sculpture contest and fund raisers for the local orphanage. Contact Gina (see below) for directions to the meeting site.

Ebullient Gina Machorro has been mentioned in various visitors comments. (She'll be especially tickled at the sobriquet "The Information Goddess") Fully bilingual, she works for the Oaxacan tourist information service (SEDETUR), and her desk is just outside the chains of the Adoquin (main tourist street) in front of the Hotel Roca Mar. On Wednesdays and Saturdays from 8-10 she leads a fascinating walking tour of Puerto, well worth the 150 pesos. She treats her guests to handmade tortillas and local breads, as well as beverages, and takes them to out-of-the way places of interest. (Because Puerto has grown like Topsy, it's hard to find many of these places on ones own.) Gina can also arrange long and short term rentals from the cheap to the luxurious, and has leads on some wonderful pieces of land for sale. She can be reached at 011-52- (958) 2 02 76. She won't be able to call you back unless it's collect. Government workers are paid very little, but you'll find that she knows everything about everything in Puerto Escondido.

The territorial conflict between Santa Maria Colotepec, San Pedro Mixtepec and Puerto Escondido, centuries old, may be resolved this year (1999). All lay claim to Puerto because of (surprise,surprise!) $$$$, that is, the tremendous tax revenues generated by tourism in Puerto. As of now, very little money goes directly to Puerto Escondido as a governmental entity. That has hindered sewage treatment as well as solutions to other infrastructure problems. There is considerable hope on the horizon.

Because tourism is down this year, many hotels have lowered their rates. It's a great opportunity to visit and get acquainted with a fascinating area. My best advice is to fly to Oaxaca, spend one to three days there in one of Mexico's most interesting cities (I recommend Hotel Calesa Real--near the center of town, very clean, quiet, reasonable), then take AeroVega (buy your tickets at the Hotel Monte Albán in front of the cathedral or at a travel agency) to Puerto in the morning. You'll arrive in 30 minutes and feel as if those $65 US were well spent. Busses taking one of three routes are an option, but all trips take between 7-12 hours on roads waiting for new tax revenues (collected mostly in March) to be repaired. Vancouver, B.C., Toronto and Minneapolis are among the cities I know which have cheap charters to Huatulco, 2 hours south of Puerto. From the airport there, you can take the airport transportation (comfortable, air conditioned, HORRIBLY EXPENSIVE--about $100 US--vans), or, if you don't have much luggage, you can walk out to the highway and flag down a bus that says "Puerto Escondido", or a mini-bus that says "Pochutla". If you go to Pochutla, you'll take a similar mini-bus to Puerto which will leave shortly after you arrive in Pochutla. The bus trips will cost between $3 and $10.

Puerto Escondido is a wonderful place to live. Is it perfect? Of course not, but then I don't know of such a place. I feel completely safe and continue to enjoy the friendly inhabitants, the delicious seafood, the beautiful beaches, the proximity to breathtaking Manialtepec Lagoon (20 min.) and its miriad birds, the lovely weather (within several degrees of 80 F year 'round), the proximity to the city of Oaxaca and the benefits of a lower cost of living. The promise by Telmex to become a local internet server remains a hollow one as do many of that company's others. You may e-mail me, but because I'm forced to go through a server in Oaxaca (I pay 95 pesos an hour for e-mail only), please include a "snailmail" (mailing) address. I'll try to get back to you. If it's more urgent, I can call you collect.

Sheila C.
palomas@antequera.com
January 1999

Huatulco/Puerto Escondido

We just arrived home from our vacations in the Pacific coast of Oaxaca. We were there from December 26 up to January 10.

First, my boyfriend, another friend and myself, drove from Mexico City to Huatulco. The road was good. We arrived in Huatulco on December 26 and stayed in Bahía Santa Cruz in Hotel Biniguenda, which has many nice rooms. I have to say that it was extremely expensive (considering what you get for your money), it costed us US$ 130 per night, however all of the Huatulco was full due to the Christmas season. The hotel itself is nice and I am sure that during the low season, the price is much lower. We had a nice and not expensive dinner at one of the beach restaurants at Santa Cruz and another one at the Argentinean restaurant in Tangolunda bay. The restaurant is nice and so is the food, but very expensive.

After two days in Huatulco we went to Puerto Escondido. My boyfriend and I first fell in love with Puerto Escondido in 1994 and have been there for 4 times since our first visit. We made a reservation in Posada Real in advance, because we stayed in this hotel 3 times before and loved it, especially its garden from where the sunsets are fabulous and the nice beach club with a lovely pool. However this time, it was a little different. The pool in the beach club was so dirty that it was impossible to see the bottom of the pool! After we complained to the manager, it got a little better. The hotel staff were also not as friendly as they used to be. Sometimes, we waited for our drinks at the hotel garden for 30 minutes, or we were ignored when we tried to order. Which I find weird is that when we were friendly with them and tried hard with our broken Spanish, they ignored us, however after we started to speak English only, it got better. Nobody at Posada Real speaks English. Maybe we will try Santa Fe hotel next time we come to Puerto Escondido.

During our previous stays in Puerto Escondido we usually had our dinners at Posada del Tiburon, a restaurant I considered to be the best in the world (mind you, I go to France a lot!). This time, the service was awful, to put it mildly. We made reservation for New Years dinner and paid in advance. We ate at that restaurant 3 nights before the New Year's, so they knew us. As agreed, we arrived to the restaurant at 10 p.m., waited for 2.5 hours and did not get any food whatsoever! After 2.5 hours we wanted our money back and left. They completely spoiled our New Year's party! Therefore, don't go to Posada del Tiburon! It was very good, but it went very bad.

After a week in Puerto Escondido we took a Cristobal Colon bus to Huatulco. We made a reservation in Camino Real Zaashila and we loved it! We had a very nice room with the ocean view and a private pool. We found out about this fabulous hotel from your page, Tom, and I am very grateful for it. As everybody that stayed there, we believe that it is marvelous and worth every dollar you spend for it. We spent a little more that we intended, but it was definitely worth it! The main pool in the Zaashila is huge, the beach is really beautiful and nothing can beat your own private pool!

We stayed in Huatulco for a week. My boyfriend went snorkeling to the La Entrega, said it was nice, but it was really funny, because on the day that we went there, there was a huge Celebrity Cruises ship parked in the bay (I still have no idea how something so huge could park in that tiny bay). We tried most of the restaurants in the La Crucecita Zocalo and all were nice, even though some were very expensive, like the Cactus.

We flew back to Mexico City and loved the Huatulco airport. It's the nicest air terminal I have ever seen!

I am sure that Puerto Escondido and Huatulco are ones of the most beautiful places on this planet and we will go there again.

Happy New Year and best regards from very cold Europe,

Tamara
Tamara.Guzelj@deloitte-touche.si
January 1999

Comments from Chihuahua

From my particular point of view I can tell you we didn't like Hotel Ines, it is very cheap but at least our room (No.13) wasn't the best one. Maybe the bungalows or apartments are better. Anyway, we moved to Santa Fe and although it is not very cheap it is worth it. It's a beautiful place and people were very gentle and helpful. Also the food in the restaurant is great.

I am Mexican and even we live far away from the sea (Chihuahua). Let me tell you our experience with sea food at Puerto Escondido wasn't very pleasant, I prefer mariscos at Chihuahua. Maybe because I didn't read all the comments on this page.

Playa Carrizalillo is paradise!! Also the tour to Chacagua is beautiful. All the people in the area are great and nice. I found dogs are happy residents at Zicatela and Puerto Escondido.

I really recommend El Cafecito, great place, service, food and prices. It is a shame I lost my film of Puerto Escondido, I will miss everything from that small place.

Look forward to visiting Puerto Escondido next year. If you could provide us with some information regarding land prices in the Bacocho (and Puerto Escondido in general) area. We would really appreciate it. Thank you and have a great Navidad!!!

grupo7@infosel.net.mx
December 1998

I Love Puerto Escondido

GoodGirly2@aol.com
December 1998

Report: Security, Restaurants, Hotels, Roads

Mexicana Airlines doesn't not seem to see matters quite the same. They have transferred their service into Puerto E./Huatulco to AeroCaribe and there are a lot of people who are NOT happy about it. Schedules seem to change without notice, travel agents get incorrect connection times and information, and a number of people have been left at the airport due to unannounced cancellations. I suppose it will eventually sort itself out, but as one bitter taxista told me, "Mexicana has abandoned us."

Restaurants:

The Best Place in Town Award (in my opinion) Junto al Mar - The floodlights on the beach add dramatically to the charm of this most excellent spot. Seafoods were prepared to perfection, service was outstanding, and prices, all things considered, were modest. It has been our habit to have at least one "fancy" meal while in Puerto, and that was always at the Santa Fé. Junto al Mar, at the west end of the Adoquín, has served notice that the Santa Fé is going to have to work harder if they want us back.

Sardinia de Plata - does not merit mention on your page.

La Torre - relatively new place in Bacocho at the west end of Rinconada. We have visited several times now and confidently recommend it. The menu does not currently offer seafoods, offering instead some very tasty chicken and beef dishes, prepared with in decidedly regional styles. La Torre is an attractive, albeit small place, having only about 10 tables. It is impeccably clean, service was exceptional and prices were modest.

My old friend Silvio at the Taquería Playita has enjoyed so much business that he had to relocate... only about 1/2 a block, but to the chagrin of many of his long-standing customers, myself among them. He now has much more space and his braziers are built into a separate glassed-in area. you can still watch the food preparations, but you are no longer exposed to the heat of the charcoal. During the Fiestas de noviembre, he was serving up two of the biggest pastors I have ever seen. Nobody disputes the fact that Silvio's tacos are the best in the area, perhaps the best in the country!

Taquería Mayra - another favourite place. From the newsstand on Avenida Oaxaca it is one block east (up the hill.) Serves a full regional menu but the tlayudas with beef or chicken are my clear favourites.

Danny's Terrace at the Rincón del Pacifico has made some changes on the terraza (very pleasant and breezy now) - recommended for lunches.

Cafecito on Zicatela is still beating the daylights out of the competition. Quality, prices and service are all among the best. The owner is obsessive about cleanliness, particularly washrooms. I even got to do emergency repairs on the toilet for him during the surfing championship... you would think I might get a free lunch for it? I'll remind him when we go back in February.

Next to Cafecito is a new hotel, Olas Altas. It is part of a very welcome "new look" in Zicatela. It features about 50 rooms and suites a VERY attractive place. Landscaping was just about complete at the end of November. I'll get you a photo in February, Tom. Prices were around $60 CDN for the single rooms, just over $100 CDN for the suites.

Fiesta Mexicana has deteriorated, a "hotelucho," a dump. Damage from Pauline and Rick has not been dealt with, but they seem to be continuing in business anyway. It is dreary and seedy - best to bulldoze the thing into the adjacent ravine and use it for fill. Current gossip is that the place is tied up in a marital dispute and probably won't be improved until that issue is settled.

Hotel Villa Sol is under a limited reconstruction. We saw a Days Inns car parked there several days and are speculating that it will be a part of the Days Inn chain. Part of the Villa Sol name had been painted over.

Road report

Huatulco to Puerto E. - generally in very good shape. A few minor rough spots close to Puerto, but otherwise OK.

Acapulco to Puerto E. - Very much improved. Most of last year's detours are fixed. No problems.

Oaxaca to Puerto - via Sola de Vega (Hwy 131), still many sudden potholes and single-lane traffic areas due washouts.

All in all, Puerto is looking great, still bright green from the late rains. The holiday season is going to be a very busy one.

Wayne
deedub@coastworks.com
December 1998

Driving From Ontario

San Augustinillo:

Camped next to Evelia's last time for 2 wks. No charge as long as I ate there. Became the night watchman of sorts, helped clean up in the a.m. and p.m. Everything is pretty well back to normal since Pauline & Rick, less palm trees and a few roofs still missing, especially at the Turtle Museum. I'm anxious to see if it's back on line. My understanding is that they had to cut loose of all the turtles due lack of power, setting back a 10 yr. research project. Knowing how long it takes the gov. to do anything it is quite a blow to the local economy. As you know, tourism was to take place of the annual turtle slaughter.

Mazunte:

Expect to rent Umberto's place for a wk. when the Mrs. comes down. My friends, Tony & Helen from B.C. have a little airstream there. I believe Helen is on your web site relating their experience with Rick. Beautiful, calm bay.

Well, enough for now. Getting geared up for my annual break. Expect to leave Jan. 15. Going to Campeche 1st. for a couple of wks. bumming around the ruins of the Yucatan (if anyone has info, please e-mail me). Then to Palenque, camp up stream at Agua Azul (found a camp site last yr.--10 pesos a nite), then down to Puerto E. to meet my little love muffin".

By the way, they are removing the dock at Puerto Angel, possibly putting in a new one.

Miguel
mikesucio@aol.com
November 1998

Choosing Between Puertos

We spoke last month re: Puerto Angel and Posada Canon Devata. Got back last week from two weeks in Oaxaca - nine in the city and six in Puerto Escondido. Originally was going to go to Puerto Angel (thanks for the contact # for Kiri). Made a lot of friends in Oaxaca and they advised changing my plans; thought I'd enjoy P.E. more - more activity. I suppose they were right; passed through P.A. on my way to Huatulco Airport and it was very quiet, although very lovely. Plan to spend some time there on my next trip down.

As for P.E., it was very nice (although awfully hot). Had downloaded some info from your website on P.E. prior to leaving, and I was glad I did. Stayed at Hotel Arco Iris and I highly recommend it. Inexpensive (and they give a 10% discount if you pay in full), very clean, lovely grounds, wonderfully pleasant and helpful staff, and the view is incredible. They also serve a good and inexpensive breakfast, although Cafecito is definitely the place to eat on the Zicatela.

Was in P.E. when the Governor of Oaxaca came for the beach-lighting ceremony. Yes the beaches at P.E. are now lit at night, from Bahía Principal to almost the end of Zicatela. Not very romantic, but certainly safer now.

Allen
AKlein3641@aol.com
November 1998

Volunteer Work?

September in Puerto Escondido

My wife and I had two wonderful weeks in Oaxaca and Puerto Escondido in September 98. Puerto Escondido manages to retain its small town feel while still providing reasonable tourist amenities such as hotels and restaurants. The Hotel Santa Fe [photo 53K] sets the standard for service, has a great tropical feel, the best restaurant in town and views of the ocean. As usual the local people and foreign residents were very friendly and helpful. A couple of recent additions at Zicatela beach include La Bella Vita, an outstanding Italian restaurant just across from the Santa Fe and Dann's Bar at Noel's Cabanas. La Bella Vita uses fresh local produce to make dishes like "insalata caprese" (fresh tomatoes, basil and mozarella) and garlic shrimp with tomatos and pasta. Dann's Bar is a collection of plastic tables under palapas next door to Cabo Blanco. Dan is an-expat from Ventura, California, who is married to a local lady. Dann's attracts a colorful crowd of retired Americans, Australian surfers and German tourists. Its a great place to listen to tall tales and enjoy a few cold ones.

Many people ask about safety in Mexico. There is an increased police presence on the beach in Puerto Escondido. All of the local cops seemed competent. I felt completely safe but we also make a point of using common sense as to where we go and when. Stay off the beach at night. Of greater concern is the undertow at Zicatela beach. This is not a swimming beach and only experienced ocean swimmers should go in the water.

So if you go to Puerto this winter please stop by Dann's and have a cold beer for me. Tell him Mike and Susan from Ohio State say Hi!

Mike and Susan
mike.spino@obm.State.OH.US
November 1998

Tales of the Heart, an article by Kenneth Richards.

Love in 1995

Also, I was sorry to see reports in the comments section of a rape/murder. How very sad for Carol Schlosberg, her family and friends. My heart goes out to them. I hope they will forgive me for wondering how her tragedy is likely to affect our visit. I can't help wondering if the situation remains tense, or the police presence heavy.

Thirdly, Ben and I have both had health problems this year and have to be very careful what we eat at the moment. Normally, I don't worry about diet at all (anyone who sees me on the beach will see result) but we really have to be careful this time. Can anyone give us some do's and don'ts please.

Fourthly, is there a smart/cheap way of getting from Puerto Escondido airport into the town?

Thanks, Tom, for this website. All the best to all of you

Cathy
benandcathy@nineginge.demon.co.uk
November 1998

Looking For A Place To Rent

Hank Rudin
PO 1776
Onset, MA 02558
hveer@aol.com
November 1998

Manialtepec Lagoon & Ecological Notes

My name is Michael Malone, owner /operator of Hidden Voyages Ecotours" (Viajes Escondidos SA de CV) which is noted several times in your pages. My wife and I have migrated to Puerto Escondido each winter now for 3 to 4 months for the past 18 years. We've watched Puerto grow and change drastically in this time, but still love it and look forward to returning year after year. Recently I have set up a web-site for which I would appreciate a link. I have posted some aerial photos of Manialtepec Lagoon which you are welcome to use on your site if you wish. You may check it out at: http://www.wincom.net/~pelewing/hvecotur.html

I am a neophyte computer user and will attempt in the near future to forward you a list of the 260 bird species that I have identified in the vicinity of Puerto - from Chacahua Lagoon National Park, Manialtepec Lagoon, and the foothills adjacent Puerto, The region is extremely rich in biodiversity, very little of which has any protection whatsoever. Through ecotourism I am attempting to promote awareness of this richness so that local peoples and international travelers can better understand and appreciate it, which in turn will give an economic incentive to protect it. Its a long, slow battle that may take a generation. It's heart-breaking to watch it slowly be destroyed - Manialtepec is threatened from all sides by cattle production, jet-skis, shrimp cultivation, drainage schemes, clandestine cutting of mangrove, population pressures, you name it. For the past several years I have been leading both National and Massachusetts Audubon groups on 8-day tours of Oaxaca with 4-day stays in both Oaxaca City and in Puerto, again bringing in some economic activity to provide jobs for Oaxaqueños, instill pride in their wildlife resources, and get them directly involved in its management and conservation. Oaxaca has biological resources every bit as rich as Costa Rica, which the state government is finally waking up to and beginning to promote.

We will drive down to Puerto at the end of November and be there until approximately April 1, our usual routine. If you will be in Puerto at that time please drop into Turismo Rodimar on the adoquin and introduce yourself. It would be my pleasure to take you out on a morning tour of Manialtepec Lagoon and show you some of its highlights.

Regards from Ontario, Canada
Michael Malone
pelewing@wincom.net
October 1998

Puerto Update

There is some good news about Puerto: El Son y la Rumba are now in the adoquin and Mayka is singing wonderfully. In that place you can also dance close to the waves. Ana (brasilian buggyboarder) and Barto (from Peru Surfer) in November are going to have a Baby. Big Jim and his wife had a baby boy last week (he is the one that manages the river trips with Blue. Morgan works in the spa of the hotel Ines, the spa is incredible, sauna, Jacuzzi and you can get a massage for 150 pesos, and also is working for a web that informs the surfers about the waves around the world. He was owner of Bruno´s after Bill and Patty.

The main road had some problems in the rainy season but all the people of the town are helping to build the road; they help with work, food and water for the workers, etc. This kind of collaboration they call tequio. All this to have it fixed as soon as possible.

Tips: If you go to the market you can buy shimp, 1 kilo for 45.00 pesos. Incredible! If I remember something else I would write later. I am planing to spend the new year there again.

Maru
maru_u@hotmail.com
October 1998

La Michoacana

Ojala puedas incluir en tus recomendaciones posteriores la paleteria y neveria La Michoacana, en donde se disfrutan unas paletas, nieves (ice cream) y aguas frescas verdaderamente exquisitas y refrescantes.

Ojala tomen en cuenta mi opinion. Gracias y felicidades.

omar14468@hotmail.com
Septiembre 1998

Searching for Miguel Leyud Ruiz

Please reply attn: Patti H.
dabrah@ssimicro.com
August 1998

Fun at Arco Iris

We didn't see any crime and felt safe which is always good! Have a great time in Escondido!

jlamber4@ix.netcom.com
August 1998

Looking for Film Producer living in P.E.

Tad Jaworski
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
tamtad@ica.net
August 1998

Hotel El Tabachin

It's called El Tabachin. It's very reasonably priced. My husband and I stayed on the third floor "suite" for $55/night. Unbelievable, because it's a huge room with two beds, a kitchen, and lots of extra room, windows, plenty of ventilation. Best of all is the balcony. We had a spectacular view. Tabachin is next to Santa Fe, and I read over and over how wonderful S.F. is. And, I'm sure it is. But not one room there had as fantastic a view as we did. Not only is Tabachin on a hill, but the fact that our room (the entire floor was our room!), was on the third floor put us up very high. And, if that wasn't enough, there was an open deck above us.

This place is really nice. Beautiful blue tiles on the floor and stairs, four ceiling fans, two doors (for better ventilation), a balcony on three sides, a large water tank with purified water, a large tiled shower, and decorated in spanish colonial. It isn't just the hotel itself, but the owner, Pablo (or Paul), who makes the place so special. Pablo is a relaxed, extremely intelligent, well-traveled man, who is fascinating to talk with. He is very humble, too. If you call him and ask him about his hotel he will be quite modest about it.

Oh, and he has a courtyard set up with tables for breakfast. The fruits are organic and grown on his property in Nopala. The coffee is locally grown, as well. The food is very good. He just serves breakfast, however. Pablo also has two houses in Nopala, a mountain village about two hours from Puerto Escondido. He has them available mainly in the winter months. He did take us on a tour there, and treated us to a fantastic lunch made by his cook in Nopala. Pablo has many local people working for him, and he pays them well, and also supports them financially in their higher education. I highly recommend El Tabachin. If you do go there, please ask Pablo if there is anything you could bring to him. He is very appreciative, and will repay you for whatever it costs. I took sheets with me for him, and he was very grateful.

phone number for El Tabachin: 011 52 958 21179

Connie
mattz@teleport.com
July 1998

Surfing Question: What is the difference between seasons?

I was very pleased with my trip. Highs were good food, excellent surf and mostly friendly people. Lows where heat and mosquitoes. My advice to travelers to Puerto is this. Pack light but have plenty of reading material. Puerto is a great place to relax.

Hordur Thordarson
hordur@vedur.is
July 1998

Fishing Question

I should arrive in mid-September and plan on staying [in Zipolite] until the 1st of the year. Any info would be greatly appreciated .

Larry W. Phillips
LarryMex@webtv.net
June 1998

More Comment on the Murder in P.E.

MARUCA@webtv.net
June 1998

Fantastic First Trip

If you feel the yearn of the sea, take a quick taxi to Puerto Angelita and ask for Omar (Nadine's honey). He'll take you out on la lancha (boat) for a good price to fish for Bonita, see the huge sea turtles, and tour 7 gorgeous beaches.

Speaking of beaches, Zicatela is the best surf and surfer watching spot. Playa Marinero is great people watching, and good swimming. Carazalillo is paradise!

While we were there, the local newspaper arrived with lots of scuttlebutt. Apparently two (non-local) men have been caught who admitted to the murder.

Next time - its two weeks (or more)......

BirdHouse@wclynx.com
June 1998

Comment on the Murder in P.E.

The media hype about the murder is just that--hype. It was a slow week in the United States and the tabloids were scraping the bottom of the fear-mongering barrel. Believe me, I would camp half way down Zicatela beach a hundred times before I would even dare to walk down a back street in any of Americas major cities. The murder in P.E. was akin to being struck by lightning. It was just a case of bad luck. Mexican police may be a bit laid back, but I'm sure they do the best job that they can do. I tire of hearing that they are corrupt, (like American law enforcement are all ex-choir boys), and that they don't take their jobs seriously (ever talk to a congressman?), and that they take bribes, (ever hear of lobbyists and campaign funding reform?), and if you're rich you'll get off, but if you're poor you'll go to jail (remember O.J. Simpson?) Mexico is a far safer place to be than the good old U.S.A. I'll take care of myself thank you very much. Mexico is still a relatively free country, and I refuse to trade liberty for security, because you can lose your freedoms, but you will never, ever be able to completely ensure your security. If you want warm sun, sandy beaches, nice hotels all the amenities and lots and lots of regulation and friendly, smiling police officers directing your every move, go to Florida, or Malibu Beach. Just hope to God you don't get caught in some crossfire, car jacking, or drug deal gone bad. If you fear Mexico, please by all means stay home. American paranoia is a disease that threatens the warmth and ambiance that the Mexican people bestow on foreign visitors so lavishly. If you open up to them, trust them and have the "amigo spirit," Mexico will reward you with the most relaxing, fulfilling and truly memorable vacation experience you could ever hope to have.

The American media would have you believe that Mexico is a violent, corrupt and decadent country. But that could not be further from the truth. It is most certainly the other way around--a case of the pot calling the kettle black.

Citizen Zero
skydog@abac.com
May 1998

Puerto E. 5 Years Later

It is sad, however, that this woman died in the manner that she did. Conversations with Americanos and locals indicated a high level of frustration with local law enforcement and a perceived lack of dedication to the job. There is a meeting scheduled (today, I believe) to organize a support group for residents.

The smoke from the fires in Mexico was very evident in Escondido but not unbearable. We had 2 days out of 14 that were very smoky but still enjoyable. The biggest effect seemed to be an increase in humidity which drove up the thirst for more cerveza at the beach.

The beach has really changed since I was last in Escondido (5 years ago). As a result, the surf was less than it has been and the barrels were nowhere the length or quality that they used to be. While I don't surf anymore, others still seemed to be enjoying themselves.

Thanks for this website, Tom. I'll stay in touch.

deaner@nwinternet.com
May 1998

Safe and Enjoyable Trip

In Oaxaca we stayed at the Victoria Hotel. It did not have air conditioning because usually it is cooler at night and none is needed. However, it was 92 degrees the first night we were there thanks to El Niño. It started to cool off about 4 AM. The next day we kept our drapes closed until the sun set and it was much more comfortable. The zócalo was wonderful on Saturday afternoon! The colors, crafts, people and food were a scene to devour. We sat at a cafe on the square, had a cervesa and people watched. There were several political rallies slated for the evening with live bands. Many young people were there later in the afternoon. We felt safe walking within 2 or 3 blocks on all sides of the square.

The food and drinks at the hotel were excellent. The people genuine and gracious and the hotel gardens and grounds beautiful. Our room was $80 per night but well worth the view from the terrace bar and the restaurant. They had a breakfast buffet with authentic Mexican dishes that changed daily. Before we left, the maitre d' brought the manager of the hotel to our table so she could invite us to return. We will definitely return to the Victoria when in Mexico again and recommend their hospitality, beautiful hotel and scenic views.

In Puerto Escondido we stayed at the Santa Fe [photo 53K]. Upon arrival they gave us a choice of two rooms, one at $48 and one at $56/night. We chose the more expensive room by the pool. It was brighter and a little larger with an alcove for a table and chairs. The bathrooms are huge with 2 sinks and a shower with a window up high, completely tiled all around. There were large mirrors and Hollywood style make-up lights above each sink and counter. They also have air conditioning and a fan. We used the AC during the day and the fan at night. The Santa Fe is incredible. It is a Spanish-Moorish paradise - a spectacle for the eyes. They have 2 pools - one for adults only. You can sit on the terrace above Zicatela beach and watch the waves crashing or the young people playing soccer. The roar of the waves could be heard in our room at night even with our windows closed!

The restaurant was wonderful. The garlic shrimp were grilled and left in their shells like a lobster tail would be. The red snapper was heavenly. The one Italian dish I had - fettuccini alfredo - was disappointing. No meat is served.

We walked the mile on Marinero Beach to the zona tourista each day. We were warned not to take the road to town. We ate at Bananas for breakfast - fruit crepes and ham/cheese crepes with Oaxacan cheese. Both were excellent! We also ate at Perla Flameante (tuna teriyaki style) and at Posada (Tiberon) - excellent garlic shrimp in a spicy red sauce. We ate lunch only once at a small cafe across from the ice cream stand opting for tacos con pollo and enchiladas con pollo. Both were excellent with the 2 for 1 cervesa since Happy Hour is all day long there.

We also ventured into the town itself up on the hill. We took a taxi to the Mercado and from there walked a few blocks and bought some tapes. We returned the next day to go to PE's only "supermarket" which is around Av. 4 Norte a block west of Av. Oaxaca. There was a police guard at the entrance. We then walked down Oaxaca Avenue to 1st Ave. and the newsstand. The Tacqueria across the street was closed since it was only about 1 PM. A taxi anywhere in town is 10 pesos and it is definitely worth taking - they are everywhere.

We wound up our stay with an overnight in Mexico City. We stayed at the Holiday Inn Dias Plaza (close to the airport) instead of the Imperial Hotel downtown (originally reserved) because of the warnings about taxis. The Holiday Inn has a shuttle. It was expensive ($110/night) but a beautiful hotel - very art deco with a lobby atrium that went to the skylight above.

Everywhere we went, the Mexican people were hospitable and gracious. Our safety was paramount to them and to the tourist trade in general and they gave us advice on where to go and what to stay away from. We took their advice and had a wonderful experience. We met some young people traveling around Mexico on a shoestring who stayed on Zicatela for 30 pesos (about $4) a night (no AC) and they felt safe as well. We highly recommend the Hotel Victoria and the Santa Fe.

Liz_Goodwin
Ametek%AMETEK@notesgw.compuserve.com
May 1998

Murder at Noon

Omar Guillen
carrillo@305fs.AssiniboineC.MB.CA
May 1998

Roadblock on Hwy 200

We got a great deal on a charter from Minneapolis to Huatulco in March, $152 round trip. We stayed our first night in La Crucecita, the town which is one hub of the Huatulco resort area. Got a room at the Flamboyant; nice place, right on the square. Next day, with the help of the travel office by the hotel's front desk, we were able to hire a taxi to Puerto Escondido for a reasonable 400 pesos. We got almost as far as Pochutla before coming up on a long line of stopped vehicles. Turned out the road was blocked some distance up ahead. I asked the driver if it was Zapatistas and he said, "no, no, just the people. It's political." No one had any information about whether the block was being or might be cleared, so we sat awhile and waited. Apparently we could have