Having gotten behind in my restaurant reviews, perhaps it's appropriate to summarize a number of the better ones which have not yet had the benefit of my critical palate put to pen. They are listed in descending order beginning with high end, not to suggest that the ones near the bottom are any less worthy of consideration, but merely to enable the reader to gauge the type of dining experience he/she will receive. There are a number of restaurants which receive rave reviews in the usual tourist guides, which are mediocre at best. They are not mentioned here because I prefer noting only good ones. However, readers are free to call me upon their arrival in Oaxaca for “the down and dirty” before they trek off for a disappointing dining experience, guidebook and credit card in hand…and as well regarding good places to eat outside of the city in the course of touring the villages, ruins and other sites. Remember that you should not feel restricted to dining to the downtown core. Given recent civil unrest in the city, as further assistance I've put an asterisk beside the names of those which are either in the suburbs or downtown yet on streets not likely to attract marching protesters and the like. I hope to do comprehensive reviews of each restaurant listed below, in due course.CASA OAXACA: In a class of its own, with 2 downtown locations, one in a hotel of the same name [García Vigil #407] and the other alongside a gallery with a smart little bar facing the street. I prefer the latter because of its ambience. Top choice for that special occasion; or if this is your regular style of dining; or for a once-on-a-holiday splurge. As with each of the best restaurants in the city, it won't break the bank, certainly relative to what one would pay for a comparable meal in Canada, the US or major European cities.
TEMPLE: García Vigil 409-A. While we've dined here on only a couple of occasions, we've still been thoroughly impressed with service, quality of fare, and perhaps a bit to a lesser extent the wine list, although here in Oaxaca one ought never choose a restaurant based on availability of specific wines…we just don't get the variety to which one might be accustomed.
LOS DANZANTES: Macedonio Alcalá No. 403-4. Décor is impressive and unique, and general ambience quite pleasant albeit a bit cold. Service can be inconsistent periodically, which may at times translate into not receiving principle plates together or hot. I'm knit-picking perhaps too much since this popular haunt is nevertheless up there in this second grouping and likely will please all.
*LA TOSCANA: 5 de Mayo, No. 614. Several blocks from the downtown core yet nevertheless walking distance for those who wish, La Toscana is located in a quiet, quaint downtown neighborhood. The tables are in an exquisite setting with boardwalks traversing shallow fountain-style pools of water. Because of its location, we've always found it to be much less touristed than the rest, yet nevertheless busy provided you dine when the locals do, as opposed to on your “home” dining schedule, whether for comida or cena.
*EL CHÉ: There are two locations, one in the heart of downtown, 5 de Mayo #413, and the other in Colonia Reforma, the former never seeming to have many of its tables filled, perhaps because it's an older style restaurant more attractive to the locals who nevertheless prefer dining at the suburban branch. Downtown tourists now seem to opt for a more modern setting and menu than is offered. However, when it comes to Argentinean beef, it can't be beat. I always try to convince the rest or our party to share the barbecued sweetbreads as a starter.
*CAFÉ CAFÉ: Popular with locals, it's a well-kept secret from most tourists, yet only a couple of blocks up the street from a couple of popular hotels on Tinoco y Palacios. We've always enjoyed sitting outside in its rustic courtyard with central fountain for a light, late dinner, with live guitar music towards the end of the week. Soups, salads, crepes and sandwiches on wholewheat or baguette typify the menu.
*ZANDUNGA: In Colonia Reforma, and not to be confused with the downtown restaurant of the same name, it's housed on a quiet street with tables on a protected patio overlooking a garden area. With its relaxed and familiar atmosphere, it's almost exclusively frequented by resident Oaxacans. Service is friendly, prompt and professional. Menu is varied, and appropriate for both comida and cena.
*MAMBO ITALIANO: Calle Jacarandas #121C. For those staying in the northern suburbs or willing to invest in a $4 cab ride from downtown, “Mambo” is the place to go for great Italian food. Located on Calle Jacarandas in San Felipe, this tiny eatery which is very popular with residents of Colonia Reforma and San Felipe del Agua, boasts good portions of appropriately cooked pastas, pizza, soups and salads. Service is fast and friendly. Selections of wines, tequilas and mezcals are limited, but when the quality is there you don't need a very broad diversity of choice. Highest cudos.
See also reviews of Restaurante Azucena Zapoteca, Restaurante Los Almendros and Restaurante Veracruz
The Starkman's arrange private cooking lessons lead by nationally reknowned chef Esperanza Chavarria Blando. Doña Lancha, as she's affectionately known, has been representing Oaxacan cuisine at competitions and expositions for 30 years.