Bill Barker
BBilredbar@aol.com
May 2000

Lola's

I always stay at Lola's, at the Playa d'Amour end of the beach. The rooms have running water, are clean and cleaned daily. In April, I negotiated my room with private bathroom and balcony at 750 peso's for the week. Their restaurant serves good food and at reasonable prices. One day for lunch, I ordered Sopa Pescado (fish soup) and my waiter was somewhat surprised at this "gringo's" choice. It was a bowl of broth in which floated a cooked fish, complete with head, eyes, fins and scales. A knife was provided for "in-bowl" filleting. I think it was eight peso's for the soup.

To travel there, I get "air only" from a Toronto charter company, to Huatulco, then walk down to the highway and get a bus to Pochutla. Then another bus to Zipolite.

At least once during the week I'm there, I take a collecto cab to Puerto Angel, where I have a wonderful dinner at the Bueno Vista Hotel. A large marguerita, three course dinner, glass of wine and the obligatory Kahlua is about $20. CDN. which is about $14 U.S. at this time. I'm a naturist and nudity is common at both ends of the beach, somewhat sparse in between.

As previous comments indicate, NEVER even consider drug dealing; it's watched very carefully by the local police. Last year there was a money exchange on the road behind the beach, this year it's not there; neither is there a money exchange in Puerto Angel. Pochutla has a couple of banks, even with ATM's, also one at the airport in Huatulco.

Do not expect any 3, 4 or 5 star accommodations in Zipolite. There is no hot water at any that I know of. The furnishings are ESA (early Salvation Army) and my balcony railing was broken, but was replaced by a single strand of string!

Nevertheless, Zipolite is still my little paradise, and continues to be very inexpensive. As previous people have said, the surf is extremely strong and riptides are common. If not a strong swimmer, do not venture out past your waist. Feel free to email me for any questions and I'll be glad to answer as best as I can.

Chris Fearon (Mr)
chris.fearon@sympatico.ca
May 2000

Want to Rent

Jeff Rickard
jrickar@comp.uark.edu
1219 N. Storer Apt. 65
Fayetteville, AR 72703
April 2000

Do You Know Pato & Julio Cabrera?

Tomaso Gobbi
gubash@freesurf.ch
April 2000

Need a Hotel

Mireya Escalante
mireya@dsi.com.mx
April 2000

Salut! A Tous Les Zipoliteños!

Hola soy karla!!....en Diciembre del 99 fue la segunda vez que fui a Zipolite y la neta, mi opinion no ha cambiado para nada, ese lugar es la ley!!, el mar, los paisajes, todo! Esta super chido...lo chido tambien es que puedes conocer gente de todas partes, osea que hay un intercambio cultural cañon!...las dos veces que he ido me he quedado en "le castelet", esta super bien, las cabañas la neta no son caras, ademas de que estan super limpias el restaurant la verdad para lo que esta en el menu esta muy barato a comparacion de otros lugares en donde te saldria un ojo de la cara comer un platillo Frances, y para la cafeteria lo mismo, le castelet esta en roca blanca y puedes llegar en taxi desde Pochutla, esta bien cerca de la puesta que es la disco y esta en la segunda calle, no esta frente al mar, pero aun asi esta chido...si eres mujer y vas por primera vez no te asustes si el teporochito de zipolite "coco" te empieza a seguir, simplemente asustalo y se va , pero de todos modos ten cuidado por que igual y te agarra jeje... Si eres de los tipicos que van a acapulco o a can-cun y quieres ir a Zipolite, open your mind por que si no estas jodido ah y tampoco esperes encontrar grandes discos ni nada por que zipolite por eso esta chido (aun) !!!....por favor!!! No se confien y no dejen sus cosas en cualquier lugar por que cuando menos se lo esperen pueden desaparecer, lo he visto muchas veces y esta cañon por que muchas veces ahi tienen pasaporte etc...!!!!....el 31 de diciembre fui a la ceremonia de año nuevo en el shambala y fue algo muy muy lindo!! Nunca voy a olvidar ese dia fue bien chido!!!...Por favor no te quieras creer el mejor nadador(a) ni nada por el estilo, asi que mejor ten muchisimo respeto con el mar, por que ahi hasta un master-nadador puede morir si no se cuida, la corrientes son muy fuertes y vienen de todas partes, asi que es mejor que no te metas mucho, en caso de que te jale la ola y no puedas regresar ¡¡ni lo intentes!! por que es peor lo que debes de hacer es quedarte detras de las olas y flotar hasta que te rescaten los salvavidas ( si te ven... sino pues a rezar !!)....lo chingon igual es que en la noche te puedes ir a cualquiera de las fogatas y estar ahi escuchando a los chavos que tocan los tambores o igual y te pones a tocar o a bailar, asi que aunque no conoscas a nadie en la fogata, no importa solo acercate... bueno es todo lo que yo puedo contar de zipol, no se pueden perder este lugar! es lo mejor !......Un gran saludo a bernardo el duéño de le castelet( que onda bert!!! una lana no??), un saludo igual a gungu ( a ver si ves mi mensaje), y al alejandro (que quien sabe en donde anda), Julien si ves esto ecris-moi!!!.......adioss!!! y vayan a zipolite la neta no se van a arrepentir!

Karla.
laura@sureste.com
April 2000

Looking for Guardian Angel

Julia Evans
England
jevans@ordsvy.gov.uk
March 2000

Phil & Dave's "Mexcellent" Adventure

When it was time to go Hubert offered us a ride to La Crucecita to a place his friend owned for our last night. It was hotel Las Palmas and his friend and owner was a gentleman by the name Willem or Memo. Well this guy knows everybody and everything. Deluxe rooms-hot water-air cond. and even toilet seats. The restaurant rivals some of the best I've seen in Chicago for quality and service. Again Willem knows where everything is and speaks perfect English. Took Dave and I another 5 days to leave this party. This is a must for anyone looking to stay away from the ugly Americans at the large resorts. p.s. the women are still fine in Zipolite but so are the thieves.

Also beat the large Mexican school teacher arm wrestling at Shandors palapa 3 times. Thanks for the web site.

phil(hoss)chicago
PSFLEETMAN@aol.com
March 2000

Easter Holiday

Reservations are recommended during Easter holidays, but I don't know how to do it in Zipolite. - Tom

Saw a Red-billed Tropicbird

We've just returned from a couple of weeks at Mario Corella's place in Mazunte. We took a boat ride out from San Agustinillo and saw a bird that does not occur on his list--a Red-billed Tropicbird. These are usually nowhere close to land, but it was right by the big guano-covered rock out in the ocean just West of Zipolite. We thought he might be interested in hearing about it. I don't know if he considers that close enough to the Puerto Escondido area to include, but he might.

By the way, the Mole web page has moved. Its new URL is http://www.ramekins.com/mole/molehome.html Tess Ewing & Louise Rice
ricewing@worldnet.att.net
March 2000

Anybody Know Richard & Carol?   NEVER MIND!

Lesley Hyatt
lahyatt33@yahoo.com
February 2000

Thanks Tom! In fact, this morning I received an e-mail from them--Richard saw the posting on your site. Superrapido. Muchisimas gracias. Lesley

From Texas by Bus

Particulars on travel: Matamoros to Puebla - ADO (Not GL) - $422 pesos Departed 7:45 PM on 12/25, Arrived 1:00 PM on 12/26 No tickets were available to Pochutla on any bus lines due to heavy holiday traffic. Had to take my chances. Puebla to Oaxaca - ADO-GL - $185 pesos Departed 8:00 AM on 12/27, Arrived 1:00 PM on 12/27 Again, there were no tickets available to Pochutla. Had to change bus stations, took a taxi to Central Bus Station across from the Mercado de Abastos. $60 pesos. At central station, I purchased a ticket to Pochutla on Oaxaca Pacifica, direct, 2nd or 3rd class, $69 pesos. Departed 2:15 PM on 12/27, Arrived 10:00 PM on 12/27. The bus had mechanical problems and probably delayed our trip by a couple of hours but the bus driver/mechanic finally got us to our destination. I was picked up by family and drove to Zipolite by car. We drove by car back to Puebla. I took the same bus back to Matamoros ADO, $422 pesos, departed at 10:55 AM on 1/07, arrived at 6:00 AM on 1/08. The trip took longer than normal due to Federales stopping all traffic from Tampico to the border.

ADO is a good bus line, inexpensive and comfortable although a little crowded. The drivers are very experienced and give passengers plenty of time for the restroom and eating stops. I found them friendly and helpful. The ADO GL is top of the line and I will probably take this one the next time I travel to Mexico. There is twice as much room with only 20-25 seats and a nice coffee bar and clean restroom. Prices are higher for the GL and only selected routes available. The roads were all in great shape, only a few bad spots on the way to Pochutla due to the earthquake. We had heard though that the road to Puerto Escondido was badly damaged.

Mazunte was crowded but not too bad. The work at Ventanilla is progressing very rapidly and the swamp is well on its way to recovery. The liberation of the baby turtles at sunset is a site to behold, be sure to check it out! The people of this community have worked many long hours to revive the trees and animal life that were devasted by Pauline in 97, a true labor of love.

I miss my new friends very much and I am counting the days until I return in December. If any readers are heading to Zipolite between now and December, please pass on a message to Giorgio who resides at Dario's place. Please tell him photos will be on the way soon and to take good care of his arm so he can make a speedy recovery.

Again, thanks for the website Tom and thank you for the opportunity to tell the world of the closest place to Paradise I have ever found on this planet Earth!

Until December........
Deborah Hinojosa
Houston, TX
monjusi@att.net
January 2000

40 and Still Zippin'

The place pictured in the "Name this Place" note from Stephen Blutter is Roca Blanca. Not sure if they have phone service for reservations or not.

Also, I agree completely with the advice you gave Keith in the Young Crowd? note - I will be 40 this March and will continue to visit and enjoy Zipolite.

Marco Wageman
Rochester, Minnesota
mwageman@mayo.edu
January 2000

Bussing from Acapulco

I then went to look for a bus. There are two terminals in Acapulco, one just north of Parque Papagayo and one N of the Zócalo on Avenida Ejido (Estrella Blanca). The Ejido station has the ONLY buses heading to Escondido or Pochutla. They leave at 3:30 AM! Buy your tickets in advance for $189 Pesos ($21). This is for an 8-9 hour 1st class "semi-directo" bus. It is an older bus with no toilet and stops at a few towns to pick up passengers but there will be no food break or bathroom break unless you ask, and then be quick. Going back west from Pochutla there are five of the same buses going to Acapulco daily and for the same price (there are other "ordinario" second class busses also; not recommended unless you are broke).

Contrary to what the map says this is not a scenic trip, a night journey is best and seemed to be safe and secure. The 1st class semi-directo leaves daily at 6AM, 10AM, 3PM, 7PM, and 10PM. The road west of Escondido is rough for about 100K. You can go to Oaxaca and other points from Pochutla and Escondido. There is a daily bus from Oaxaca to Puerto Angel that arrives and leaves at around 9-10 PM. This rough, winding but scenic route is still quite popular and I heard no bad comments about it. There were quite a few travelers in PA for the New Year and also at playas Zipolite, San Augustinillo, and Mazunte. The Mazunte turtle museum charges $P30 and is a nice tour. The laguna tour further west at playa Ventanilla is $P20 and quite pleasant; be sure to make time to walk this endless stretch of deserted beach. You can get there and back by cab at great expense ($10-15US from PA or Zipolite) but it is a long way and they will pick you up again at a designated time. Besides taxis most travelers use the pick-up truck "collectivos" which will get you from beach to beach ($P3) or beach to Pochutla ($P5) they can be quite crowded but are fun and efficient.

Zipolite is still alive and kicking. The New Year celebration was amazingly calm and well behaved. I saw fewer of the bothersome beach drunks and scarier/hairier ganga bums than in the past. The clientel seems to have gone upscale a notch but is still quite hip. There was not quite as much nudity as last year but thankfully it is still very much allowed. Rooms are becoming more plentiful from $10 and up $US. Hamaca spaces were $1.50-2.00 US per person. Tent space $4-5 US. These should be lower during the less popular times of the year. The vibes were very nice and the rumors I heard of crimes were few. Just use your head. Zipolite is still a beautiful and powerful beach that I would recommend to anyone who can let their hair down, get out of their clothes, watch the sun rise and then do nothing until its time to watch the sunset. If that sounds boring, please stay home.

We used cash machines and travelers checks in Pochutla with no problem. You can get by for $10-15 per day for food, maybe less if you cook your own. Sadly, beers are now about $1-1.25 US. Thanks for letting me post all this. Chao for now.

C-dog
dontfallonme@hotmail.com
January 2000

Loved Zipolite

I had no complaints as far as the ocean. My friend had a problem but he just wigged out. It's all about staying cool and relaxed when times are tough. Study the water patters before you even wade out, 'cuase that's when it can really get to ya'. Also I found that at least in this time of the year (early Jan) there's like a low tide earlier in the day and you can go out far in ankle deep water. Oh and if you do decide to go out stay close to the surfers, they know what they are doing and they can help ya out if times get tough.

So anyone in southern Oaxaca can't turn down something as wonderful and beautiful as Zipolite; enjoy!

Stephan, el guero
chido@rocketmail.com
January 2000

Not Living in Mexico City

If you were looking for a place where you can be free, not expending much money and also get some butt-tan , this is for you... This place breaks any concept you had of a beach vacation, if you're accustomed to stuff like like Acapulco or similar, this is different. At first I stayed at La Choza, a very nice place, and very cheap , but then I started wandering over and finally stayed on a humble but beautiful place in front of the beach where I met some friends living as a commune. It's a place full of strange characters, smiling and smoking as you pass through the town. Good music in every place, groovy decoration, nice weather (and girls of course), I mean I wanted to take photos every five minutes.

You can sit down at any fire that you see at night, hear some drums and meet people from around the world, leave your old concepts aside and have a taste of how really life is. I live in Mexico City selling oil paintings and artistic stuff, but I'm leaving everything for moving to Zipolite permanently to see what's up , I realized that I wasn't "living" in the city , and in Zipolite and Mazunte I had the best days of my life . If anyone was with me at the rave in Mazunte for new year ,or staying in La Choza those days , please write to me.

Gungu
gungu35@hotmail.com
January 2000

Viaje de Oaxaca a Zipolite a Orizaba

Bueno, antes de llegar a Oaxaca en la última caseta nos regalaron una especie de "pasaporte turístico" con anuncios de los hoteles y promociones, además de un planito de la ciudad indicando que los tiempos de recorrido a Puerto Angel y Puero Escondido eran de 5:30 horas respectivamente, esto posiblemente en Jet, pues salimos a las 10:00 de Oaxaca y llegamos a Puerto Escondido a las 18:30 más o menos. Pasamos a cenar al famoso "Capuchino", el cual no veía desde hacía más de 3 años; definitivamente ya no es lo que fue, es más, el área turística normal, el paseo de turista, los negocios a los lados y el ambiente ya tiende a pareceese al Puerto de Veracruz, huele mal y todo está carísimo.

A esto de las 20:00 salimos por la cerretera 200 rumbo a la Tierra Prometida, fueron los 70 kilómetros más largos de mi vida (y creo que la de los demás también), aquí hago un reconocimiento a mi amigo Jose Manuel Alvarado Kinell, pues SOLO manejó desde Tehuacán hasta Zipol, yo la verdad sincera me abrí por mi dolencia del oido que me tuvo levemente mareado.

Finalmente a las 21:00 arribamos a Zipol, llegamos a casa de Lino (Lola's) y ¿que creen?, resulta que no habían recibido mi carta y no habían reservado y... pues no había cuartos disponibles, así que, tratándo de no exaltarnos decidimos probar surte a ver si en La Choza había algo y si, efectivamente encontramos dos buenas habitaciones, la de $ 120.00 tenía 2 camas matrimoniales, WC con regadera, ventilador de techo, pabellones y mosquiteros, la de $100.00 exáctamente lo mismo pero solo una cama, así que ya Jose Manuel y yo no nos vimos en la penosa necesidad de dormir juntos otra vez, ya podía prestarse a habladas. El que estuvo felíz con una camota para el solito fue mi nene.

Bueno pues al día siguiente fue sesión de quema de nalgas, desnudos mi nene y yo jugueteamos en el mar, lo revolcaron las olas y creo que verdaderamente le gustó; le habíamos comprado una pala y cubeta, así que se dedicó a jugar con la arena, con Pepe, Alma y yo. Se rodaba por la pendiente hasta la playa después de decirnos "adios" a los tres. Cuando le preguntabamos si quería agua decía que no, que mejor una "chela chol" (cerveza Sol), así que de poquitos de habrá tomado como tres el solo.

Entablamos excelentes relaciones con Don Sergio, el propietario de La Choza, nos consiguó la cámara de uno de sus hijos para tomar las fotos que después les haré llegar; le dejé todo el material que he bajado de Internet sobre Zipolite, parte de la información de Tom Penick, mi anterior Website, comentarios de visitantes, mails y otras páginas, todas ellas excelentes para todo aquel que quiera enterarse de algo más lo haga, allí van también mis direcciones de e mail. Después me platicó que Anna Johansson ya había visto el material, lo malo fue que no me percaté y no pude hablar con ella para saludarla.

También fuimos a Gemini a comer Pizza, ya cambió de lugar, la propietaria nos platicó que cambió la casa por otra, no tenía servicio ni pensaba abrir debido a que su hija que la apoya no estaba, pero accedió a prepararnos, así que nos dimos un atracón con pizza "Fernando's" y "Zipolite", el nuevo local está frente al hotel elevado antes de la curva de la entrada a Piña Palmera.

En Zipol la comisa sigue excelente, "La Choza" continua con su magnífico restaurante, también comimos filete de atún con una amiga de la dueña de "Gemini", quien guisa a la leña.

Todas las cosas buenas se acaban y así se nos acabaron los dos días que habíamos destinado para Zipol, hicimos maletas la noche del Jueves 22 y el Viernes 23 a las 08:30 estabamos saliendo rumbo a Huatulco para regresar por el Istmo. La cerretera 200 sigue en buenas condiciones, el tramo entre Puerto Angel y la entrada al aeropuerto de Huatulco está un poco feo, pero después mejora bastante como para mantener una velocidad promedio de unos 90 Km/hr. Solo hay que tener cuidado con el ganado que se atraviesa la carretera, nos encontramos directamente con una recua de burros que obstinadamente se negaban a quitarse del camino.

Por la carretera 200 solo encontramos 1 retén militar, todo amabilidad el suboficial revisó parcamente nuestro equipaje y nos dejó pasar. De todas maneras nos detuvimos a tomar un refresco, ese momento fue aprovechado por Cuquín para maravillarse del "yifle" y el "caaco" de los "mushashos".

Desayunamos ligeramente en "El Oasis", en la Crucecita, sacamos dinero del Bancomer y continuamos hasta Salina Cruz, a donde llegamos sin novedad después de 2:30 horas, según nosotros para despedirnos del Pacífico pero... ¿que creen?, resulta que el H. Ayuntamiento de Salina Cruz traía pleito con sus trabajadores por cuestiones de los aguinaldos y a estos se les ocurrió la pe...regrina idea de cerrar las salidas al istmo. El bloqueo ya llevaba más de 24 horas en forma intermitente y hacía ya más de dos horas que definitivamente no dejaban pasar, así que ya se imaginarán la cola de traileros, autobuses y demás. Estabamos averiguando que y como cuando llegaron a estacionarse junto de nosotros tres pick ups repletas de judiciales que me comentaron que "en unos 20 minutos levantaban a la bola de huevones" y que "a lo mejor había madrazos", así que decididamente nos alejamos del conflicto, cargamos gasolina y nos encaminamos a una playa llamada "La Ventosa", bastante contaminadita por la cercana refinería de Pemex. Estuvimos un rato perdiendo el tiempo viendo el mar, cuando llegaron otros turistas que nos comentaron que el bloqueo ya se había levantado, así que reanudamos el camino con una pérdida de tiempo de 2:30 horas.

Finalmente, a las 24:00 del Miércoles llegamos a Orizaba, cansados pero muy contentos por nuestro viaje; encontramos el horrible clima de Orizaba por estas fechas, pero ¡que importa!, ya estabamos en casita.

Carlos S. Castillo Cruz.
cuquin1@prodigy.net.mx
www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Bay/1637/
www.geocities.com/fantasmon_mx/index.htm
www.itorizaba.edu.mx/~nemo
Orizaba, México
Diciembre 1999

Tons of Fish but no People

UNOBOCA@webtv.net
December 1999

Zipolite 2000 by Bus

Deborah Hinojosa
Houston, Texas
monjusi@att.net
December 1999

Mazunte Bound

sunbeltentinc@gateway.net
December 1999

Say Hello to Sara

Susan Vigh
taba@worldchat.com
Hamilton Ontario Canada
December 1999

About Lola's Hotel

Kris
kwdesign@peconic.net
December 1999

Young Crowd?

Keith
k_wheeler@yahoo.com
December 1999

Zipolite is for budget-minded, street-wise types who want to rub elbows with a fun-loving, pot-smoking, nude-bathing, eclectic, international group. Oh, I didn't say anything about age. It just happens that a lot of people who fit this description and are able to take off for a month or two are young, but it is not the rule. You will find people of your age and older there as well. -Tom

Name This Place

Can anyone identify this place on the western side of Zipolite? I'd like to make a reservation for New Years.

Stephen Blutter
stevenb@pcc.net
December 1999

That might be Lyoban. Bar, music, restaurant and rooms upstairs? - Kris Warrenburg, kwdesign@peconic.net

Best Way to Drive?

masunte@yahoo.com
rinconcita@yahoo.com
November 1999

And What About That Dead Guy?

Also, I am looking for Martín and Jamil Naf. Martín is a jewelry maker, and he and his son Jamil lived at Lo Cosmico... One more thing I forgot the name of a bar/restaurant that was on the beach ... they had a great happy hour and the proprietor was an Argentinean by the name of Marcello. Anyone know the name of that great place? Thanks!

Alice
sheshe6030@aol.com
November 1999

Looking for Rider to Share Expenses

Does anyone have info on Piña Palmera which I believe is in Zipolite? I tried to e-mail them but it was returned, I would like to volunteer. I am a carpenter/builder and I also teach Martial Arts, my specialty is with children, most recently at camp Winnarainbow with Wavy Gravy in Mendocino County, California.

Lorenzo Martinez Bodo420@aol.com
November 1999

Returning for the Millennium

I'd like to know if there is any way that this outdoor living under the stars is still available on Zipolite. Is it still this quaint? I have always gone on Christmas and stayed for 2-3 weeks. I am thinking of going again this year. Will this area be overbooked in the hotels? Or since I'm willing to do the under the stars routine, can I find a family on the beach that will accommodate me. This was the most relaxing vacation ever, and I'd like to re-live my past into the Millennium.

There was a French restaurant a little ways down the beach at the top of a hill that served crepes (a husband a wife deal). It was great, does it still exist?

Thanks for the help, and a special thanks for this fantastic site, I love it.

Tony
tpatti1@aol.com
October 1999

The Rains in Mazunte

Mail service was interrupted by the weather, so no mail was going into or coming out of Pto Angel for awhile.

Bill Brecheen
whbassoc@earthlink.net
October 1999

El Rinconcito de Mazunte

Planning to leave Oregon in mid-November and open up mid-December. I have driven all over Southern Mexico, but never in the North, is it best to go thru Texas and down the Gulf side? Mexican friends tell me the West coast is slow and Guerrero very dangerous. Please help me with any info you can gracias!

Darrell Cecil
darrellsue@webtv.net
October 1999

The fastest (but most boring) way is down the Gulf coast, cross the isthmus east of the mountains on Hwy 185 and head back west along the Oaxacan coast. -Tom

Also Looking for Daniel

Chante Bergmann
Austin, TX
chanteb@hotmail.com
October 1999

See the June 2000 reply. -Tom

How is Lola's Hotel?

Somebody could tell me how are the situation in Zipolite after the constant rains and the earthquake? somebody know about Lino and her family from Lola's Hotel?

Rafa
rafanune@df1.telmex.net.mx
October 1999

How Do We Contact The Roca Blanca?

Do you have any idea how to contact Francisco, or was it Fernando(?) at the Roca Blanca hotel? We stayed in one of his rooms last time and had a great time and felt secure (a lot of people were getting ripped off). There's a guy named Chico who works there, a Brazilian who speaks English well. We want to make a reservation because of the millenium - I believe its going to be mobbed.

Steven Blutter
steevenb@worldnet.att.net
October 1999

Looking for Mario at Cerro Largo

Jon Spooner
spooner@netmix.com
October 1999

Same Daniel?

JSieg10599@aol.com
September 1999

Looking for Daniel

Siobhan & Joe
London
hgp@btinternet.com
September 1999

Looking for Emmanuel

aries0777@yahoo.com
September 1999

Accommodations in Mazunte

Since hurricane Pauline Mazunte hasn't had phone service, so it's difficult to make reservations but neither is it essential unless you are there during the high tourist seasons. If you'd feel more secure having reservations, you can call the Buena Vista hotel in Puerto Angel (958) 431-04 and ask tell them you want to make reservations for their Mazunte place - the Alta Mira. They will probably connect you to Erica who works there at the Buena Vista but who is also the daughter of the wonderful woman (Doña Rosa) who takes care of the Alta Mira Bungalows and who prepares all meals there too - breakfast and dinner only.

The price at the Alta Mira is 300 pesos per bungalow and 50 pesos extra for each person over 2 people (current exchange rate is 9.3 pesos to the dollar.) At times this price is negotiable especially during lower seasons or if you're real nice to Doña Rosa :-)

Even though the meals are not cheap in Mexican terms (between 3 and 6 dollars per person) they are delicious and Rosa individually prepares each plate. And you can't beat the view!

Tim & Annette Gulick
mexikids@edomex1.telmex.net.mx
September 1999

Hey Holgar!

Thanks!
Steven
steevenb@worldnet.att.net
September 1999

Need accommodations for 40 in Mazunte

I visited your site on the web, and I saw you knowledge about the region. So we are looking for a nice, and comfortable hotel or rooms, service of Breakfasts, dilutes drinkable, etc.

We need information for 40 people. Could you help us? If you know a place, adgress or host, please contact us.

Rene Bautista
Mexico, D.F 01(5) 6-04-34-88
rbmtez@colossus.rhon.itam.mx
August 1999

Cottages in Mazunte

Tasha Vasluski
nedd@eritter.net
August 1999

Searching for Hubert Lichter and Pedro Altamirano

please give him my addresses:
PC Media Consult Heinrich Geisler
Media- und Marketingplanung
PF 1305
82524 GERETSRIED
KARL-LEDERER-PLATZ 16
82538 GERETSRIED
Germany
Tel.: ISDN (08171) 9 63 63
FAX (08171) 9 63 65

I am looking also for a Mexican actor who played a little role in a movie about Frida Kahlos life Frida kahlo and Diego Rivera are sitting in a cinema watching the actual world news the show Hitler in an open Mercedes Cabriolet with his right arm lifted up showing the "German greeting". Behind the two celebrities is a guy who starts applauding as he sees Hitler. Frida turns around and slaps him in his face I think his name (the actor's name) is Pedro Altamirano. He used to come around Xmas every year to that beach. Is there any chance to find him?

Heinrich Geisler
pcmgeisler@t-online.de, PMGEISLER@aol.com
August 1999

Estoy Planeando Ir a Zipolite

Rafael Núñez
rafanune@df1.telmex.net.mx
Julio 1999

Looking for Marcos Brown (Yogendra)

Hayes Porterfield
hayp@ime.net
June 1999

Pepe's Not So Bad

Doug Johnston
DOUGIA@webtv.net
June 1999

El Paraiso Zipolite

Fijate que lo que me inquieto a conocer Zipolite es que conocí a una chava que me "movio el tapete" "fall in love" y ella ha ido mucho a esa playa y la verdad me comanta que es un paraiso.... Bueno pienso ir muy pronto a Zipo y poder conocer gente y hacer mucho amigos.

Gracias nuevamente y felicidades por haber conocido el Paraiso.

R. Cisneros
ROBERTO_CISNEROS@gruma.com
June 1999

Born in Zipolite

But the most incredible thing of all down there was the warmth and love that complete strangers gave to my family. I am most thankful and indebted to Gloria for taking me in and giving me a new outlook on life. If anyone can give her a message please tell her that Karma loves her and that we are trying to save money to come back soon.

If anyone is thinking about having a baby down there its the most beautiful place for a child's first sounds and sights, but besides registering the child with the Mexican gov't for a birth certificate, remember to stop in Mexico City at the US embassy and register there too. You cannot get an American birth cert. or S.S. card otherwise. There is no way to do it from the states! I even tried to go through my congressman. Needless to say, we're stopping in Mexico City on our way to Zipolite. I would rather have those extra days at the beach. Send my love to the whole Family at Shambala.

Karma Swislow
KarmaYetta@aol.com
June 1999

Five Very Happy Months in Paradise!

Two, that always will come back
Evi & Gerd
Gerhard.Groeneveld@t-online.de
June 1999

Missing Person: Michael R. Barker

Bill Barker
bbilredbar@aol.com
May 1999

Jubileo 2000, articulo en la Jornada

Condonacion de la deuda

En el marco del Jubileo del Año 2000, al que convoco el papa Juan Pablo II en 1994, y tomando en cuenta que la deuda externa representa un grave obstaculo para el desarrollo, los representantes de los institutos de vida religiosa en Mexico se comprometieron la semana pasada a impulsar una campaña nacional de recoleccion de firmas, para pedir a los paises acreedores la condonacion total de la deuda de las naciones mas pobres, y en forma parcial la de Mexico.

Al finalizar en Orizaba su XXXIV Asamblea, expresaron en un mensaje al pueblo mexicano, que un modo concreto y eficaz de vivir la justicia en America "es el llevar adelante la peticion que hace el Papa sobre la condonacion de la deuda, a la que se han unido varios paises como Francia y España, y ya no pocos episcopados, entre ellos el nuestro". Creemos -añaden- "que hay que denunciar la complejidad del problema: se debe a corrupcion, mala administracion, a elevados intereses, a politicas financieras especulativas, a gobernantes irresponsables y al enriquecimiento de personas concretas, en lugar de haber sido dedicada a sostener los cambios necesarios para el desarrollo del pais".

La campaña se suma a las que con objetivos muy semejantes realizan en mas de 30 paises muchos grupos, instituciones y personas de diversas orientaciones politicas, religiosas e ideologicas, y tiene como finalidad liberar de la pesada carga de la deuda externa a mas de mil millones de personas. Una meta inmediata es entregar en junio de este ano en Colonia al grupo de los siete, 22 millones de firmas.

Como afirma el Episcopado frances en un documento reciente sobre el tema, muchos de los responsables de las grandes instituciones financieras saben que la deuda de los paises pobres jamas podra ser reembolsada, y sin embargo dudan en decidir su anulacion. "Todavia la presion de la opinion publica no es tan fuerte para ello". Ademas, con la crisis monetaria mundial, que afecta a paises emergentes como Indonesia, o en reconversion, como Rusia, tienen otras preocupaciones. "Los paises mas pobres corren una vez mas el riesgo de ser olvidados si nadie habla en su favor. El Jubileo 2000 es la ocasion para luchar contra este olvido".

Por lo que se refiere a America Latina, del 25 al 28 de enero de este año tuvo lugar en Honduras un importante encuentro de diversos representantes de la Iglesia y de la sociedad civil de 17 paises del continente, para lanzar la campaña a nivel latinoamericano, que lamentablemente tuvo muy pocas repercusiones en la prensa. Al final se emitio la Declaracion de Tegucigalpa, en la que, entre otras cosas, se afirma que la deuda externa de America Latina, cuyo monto se calcula en alrededor de 706 mil millones de dolares: cuyo servicio alcanzo ya entre 1990 y 1997 la cantidad de 581 mil millones de dolares, y por la que tendrian que pagarse solo este año 123 mil millones mas, es impagable, Ilegitima e inmoral.

Impagable, se dice, porque matematicamente no hay formula para hacerlo. Dos decadas completas de refinanciamientos, imposibles de ser cumplidos por los paises en desarrollo, lo demuestran claramente. Ilegitima, "porque se origino principalmente en decisiones de gobiernos dictatoriales, no elegidos por el pueblo, o en gobiernos formalmente democraticos, pero corruptos, sin ademas ser utilizada en beneficio del pueblo al que hoy se le exige su costo". Ilegitima, porque crecio amparada por tasas de interes y condiciones de negociacion impuestas por los gobiernos y bancos acreedores, que negaron reiterada y abusivamente el derecho de asociacion de los gobiernos deudores, aun cuando ellos si lo hicieran a traves de verdaderos carteles de acreedores (Club de Paris, Comite de Gestion), respaldados ademas por la coercion economica del Fondo Monetario Internacional y del Banco Mundial.

"La orden era clara y determinante: ustedes negocian individualmente, nosotros negociamos en bloque".

Es inmoral, porque los gobiernos tienen que destinar un alto porcentaje de los recursos del Estado a pagar la deuda externa, afectando mas que nada a los programas sociales, a los salarios de los trabajadores, generando el desempleo y afectando gravemente el funcionamiento de la economia. "Hoy existe una enorme deuda social en salud, educacion y nutricion del pueblo. Los estados gastan hoy en el area social 60 por ciento menos por habitante que en 1970".

Jubileo 2000 Mexico

Parte del movimiento global de Jubilee 2000, cuya demanda es la cancelación de las deudas externas de los paises mas pobres antes del año 2000.

Tu reto es informar a todos sobre el movimiento de Jubileo 2000 y de la situacion intolerable de las deudas del mundo pobre. Nosotros te enviaremos una carta cada semana, informandote de las actividades, las deudas y sus efectos tragicos. Proximamente te informaremos la fecha de las manifestaciones en junio. Para organizarnos es importante que nos informes de tu grupo y su plan de accion. Dinos el nombre de tu grupo de accion. Correo Electrónico jubi20@yahoo.com, Direccion postal; Jubileo 2000, Apartado 2, C.P. 70900 Pochutla, Oaxaca Mexico.

Deseo Compañeros de Viaje

David Soltero
davidsol@usa.net
May 1999

Looking for Two Brothers

JSieg10599@aol.com
May 1999

Jubileo 2000, Carta 2

MANIFESTACIONES MUNDIALES   A mediados de Junio, en Alemania se celebrara la Cumbre Internacional en la que estaran presentes los siete paises mas ricos del mundo. En ella, Jubileo 2000 Europa, se manifestara y presentara una peticion avalada por mas de 22 millones de personas, siendo esta la mas grande de la historia. Jubileo 2000 Mexico mostrara su solidaridad con cadenas humanas, que representan las cadenas de deuda, en los pueblos y ciudades de nuestro pais. ¡ACTUA AHORA!, manifiesta tu reprobacion de las deudas que matan, hacen sufrir y explotan a millones de personas. Forma un grupo de accion.

Nicaragua tiene una deuda externa de US$5,929 billones, principalmente generada por la guerra civil de los 80´s, de los cuales US$106 millones fueron prestados por el gobierno EEUU. En 1988 Nicaragua contaba con US$58 por persona para programas de salud, disminuyendo para 1997 a US$14. Durante este periodo, tuvo que pagar aproximadamente un millon de dolares diarios a los prestadores internacionales.

Despues del huracan Mitch, la deuda de Nicaragua fue revisada por el Club de Paris (una reunion de los ministros financieros de los paises mas ricos del oeste). Estos suspendieron los pagos a corto plazo, pero no redujeron la deuda externa de Nicaragua. Muchos de los apoyos de emergencia enviados a Nicaragua despues del huracan, resultaron ser prestamos, con altos intereses; creando una crisis mayor a la de 1997.

El mes pasado el Presidente Clinton, se disculpo por la intervencion financiera estadounidense en las "guerras sucias" de America Latina. Sin la cancelacion de las deudas generadas durante estas guerras, las disculpas son insultos, son palabras vacias.

La campania intensiva de Jubileo 2000 ha logrado resultados. Varios Paises Europeos, principalmente Francia, han cancelado o reducido deudas. Sin embargo es solo el comienzo.

¿COMO ACTUAR?   Tu reto es informar a todos sobre el movimiento de Jubileo 2000 y de la situacion intolerable de las deudas del mundo pobre. Nosotros te enviaremos una carta cada semana, informandote de las actividades, las deudas y sus efectos tragicos. Proximamente te informaremos la fecha de las manifestaciones en junio. Para organizarnos es importante que nos informes de tu grupo y su plan de accion. Dinos el nombre de tu grupo de accion. Correo Electronico jubi20@yahoo.com, Direccion postal; Jubileo 2000, Apartado 2, C.P. 70900 Pochutla, Oaxaca Mexico. Por mas informacion ver el Jubileo 2000 internacional web site o la pagina de Jubileo 2000 Mexico.

Anna Johansson de Cano
"Pina Palmera" A.C.
E-mail: pinapalmera@laneta.apc.org
May 1999

Jubileo 2000, Carta 1

Jubileo quiere decir aniversario o fiesta. Antiguamente los países gobernados por un monarca, consideraron el cumpleaños del rey o la reina como un jubileo. En muchos países el rey celebró la ocasión, perdonando criminales y cancelando deudas que los campesinos debieran a sus patrones. Así un Jubileo llegó a significar una ocasión para perdonar, cancelar deudas y hacer un nuevo inicio.

¿ Cuál es la deuda que deberíamos cancelar? En los años sesenta y setenta el Fondo Monetario Internacional junto con los Bancos Internacionales prestó billones de dólares a los países pobres de América Latina, Asia y África. Hubo poco control de los préstamos. Mucho del dinero fue robado por los político y militares de los países recibidores y por empresarios internacionales. El poco dinero que llegó al pueblo, se gastó rápido en vez de invertirlo en proyectos a largo plazo. La inversión no apoyó a la gente ni generó el crecimiento económico necesario para pagar las deudas.

Para recibir los préstamos, los países recibidores tuvieron que comprometerse a un calendario de pagos, no solamente del dinero recibido sino también de altos intereses. En muchos casos los prestadores pusieron tasas de intereses de más del veinticinco por ciento. Aunque parece que los países ricos del mundo están apoyando económicamente a los países en desarrollo, por el contrario, es falso. Entre 1983 y 1989 los países en desarrollo pagaron $242,000,000,000.00 de dólares, más de lo que recibieron en apoyo.

¿Quiénes son Jubileo 2000, y qué dicen? Jubileo 2000 es una organización internacional donde convergen gentes de diferentes culturas, clases sociales y religiones. Entre sus promotores cuentan con el Papa, Madona, Mohamed Ali y otras figuras públicas y políticas. El propósito de Jubileo 2000 es persuadir al Fondo Monetario Internacional a celebrar el fin del milenio cancelando todo las deudas pendientes de los países en desarrollo. Así ellos podrían empezar el tercer milenio sin las cadenas de deuda que les amarran a la pobreza. Además todo el mundo podría empezar el nuevo milenio en un ambiente más justo, más caritativo y más digno.

Jubileo 2000 cuenta con gente de 42 países, entre sus promotores se encuentra el Papa, Madona, Muhammad Ali y el Dalai Lama. Sin embargo no es suficiente, también tenemos que contar contigo, con tu familia y todos tus conocidos. Para sumarte a nosotros, circula esta carta por correo electrónico, fax, correo o a mano. Si quieres más información, favor de contactarnos en el siguiente correo electrónico: jubi20@yahoo.com

Atentamente Jubileo 2000, México

Anna Johansson de Cano
"Pina Palmera" A.C.
E-mail: pinapalmera@laneta.apc.org
May 1999

Sofia Call Home   SHE CALLED (it's a boy)

Silvie Jauvin
jauvins@FAS.UMontreal.CA
May 1999

Anybody Seen Bert?   FOUND

Bert has been found. -Tom

chinacatcabin@webtv.net
Jeffrey Bacon
April 1999

Thanks for the Site

That's all. Just a little note to tell you I appreciated the site. Hasta luego amigo.

Jaime Michele
aajaimer@yahoo.com
April 1999

Place to Stay in Playa Augustinillo

Sara Vigh
svigh@hotmail.com
Ontario, Canada
April 1999

Lost Love   FOUND

It's urgent, because I'm in love with Cesar and I would like to invite him to me before I return to him in Zipolite.

Cesar has been found. -Tom

Katja Hrobat
Slovenia
hrokat@hotmail.com
April 1999

Le Trois Lenguajes of Zipolite

Every body was cool and funny, surtout le mec de Valleyfield (Quebec) qui fabrique , vend des bijoux et de la biere sur la plage...

Merci et Hasta la proxima ves !

Al.
AAlain2850@aol.com
March 1999

Oaxaca City, Zipolite, el Mar Peligroso

I think Zipolite is more interesting than Huatulco, because it's a paceful place to enjoy. I met people from USA, Finland, England, France and Spain, I think that you could make friends if you wish it. Probably I'll go again, next July. Who wants to come with me? (I live in Mexico City).

¡J'aimerais faire amis du tout le monde!

Me encantó Zipolite, fui en Julio del 98 y aunque tengo 24 años, pienso que no hay demasiados riesgos como para ser necesario ir con alguien mas.

Todo lo que conoci de Oaxaca me pareció maravilloso en especial la iglesia de Santo Domingo y el museo que se encuentra junto a ella, El Tule es increible y Monte Alban Y Mitla también. Cuando fui a Zipolite pude ver rios, montañas y mucha pero mucha vegetacion. Aproveche para viajar de noche y conocí mucha gente de varios paises sumamente amable, creo que en ese lugar puedes conocer gente de todo el mundo. Lo chistoso es que se notaba inmediatamente que persona era de otro país y que persona era de México (las chavas latinas no se quitan la ropa). Hice amigos de Francia, Finlandia Y Estados Unidos.

Las habitaciones son baratas (60 pesos por noche) y lo más peligroso es el mar pues estuve a punto de colgar los tenis, las olas ya me estaban llevando mar adentro, como pude (como en media hora) llegué a la playa. Creo que le hace falta señalización pues pude apreciar cómo se metian a rescatar a unas personas; pero capaz que no se percata uno de nada hasta que llegue el cuerpo a la playa. Por eso: Mucho Ojo.

Es muy posible que vaya otra vez en Julio ¿Alguien se interesa en ir conmigo? Yo lo/la puedo llevar.

Luis Fernando Ramìrez
luisferrm@correoweb.com
March 1999

Scorpions, Thieves, and Drownings Dampen Zipolite Experience

However, what was to come was worse...the third night of our stay we woke up at 4am to banditos stealing all our stuff. They took our backpacks which contained clothes, shoes, books and cameras... not a single picture of the trip as a result. Fortunately we all slept with our money belts under our pillows, or they would have gotten them too. We were very lucky we weren't physically harmed... when the banditos heard us wake up, they flew out the window. Now, don't get me wrong, Shambala is a beautiful place.. awesome food and friendly people. But I would seriously recommend sleeping up in the hammocks rather than the beachfront cabana. It has no locks when you are sleeping. I'm sure we were not the first to be robbed, nor the last.

The riptide in Zipolite is horrifying. We watched two people drown in the waters the second day there. As for the peace and magic everyone talks about...I couldn't find it anywhere. There were people everywhere and restaurants from one end of the beach to the other. It was not the Zipolite I had in mind at all.

We visited Mazunte, which is a 15 minute taxi away...now there was peace and magic!! It was much smaller. I would highly recommend visiting this paradise. And the turtle sanctuary is worth checking out too.

Then we decided to head back to Puerto Escondido where we stayed for the remaining week of our holiday. I would definitely visit PE again. We stayed on Playa Zicatela. We quickly became addicted to Carmen's pastries at La Cafecita ( especially her mango pastry), and everything on the menu at La Gota da Vida. It has an excellent vegetarian menu!!! We stayed at Hotel Ines. It cost us $10 Canadian each per night (4 people sharing a room). It has a beautiful pool and the rooms are immaculate. In fact this room was only $2 more per night than the one in Zipolite (which had no private shower or toilet). We danced away a few nights to a salsa band at La Rumba.. a bar in town...lots of fun.

Even though we dealt with a lot of disaster this trip, I don't regret a single moment of it. Possessions can be replaced, but the memories and the stories are worth every lost item. For any of you heading off to these parts....be safe and enjoy.

schlack@islandnet.com
March 1999

Looking for Patricia & Jennefer Hill   FOUND

Looking for Work and Traveling Companions

Julie
bedaine2@total.net
March 1999

Hwy 175, La Iguana Azul

There's an incredible pizza place out by Roca Blanca. I forget what it's called but when you go there do order the cheese and nut or cheese and apple pie for dessert--chocolate is also good. There's some German building some stuff just north of Lola's and Lola's is in a state of repair, so that can cut short the peace and quiet.

There are some nice cliffs by el faro (the lighthouse) though it's not easily accessible. Try going to Punta Cometa ("Comet Point"). It's a long walk through some forest but it's really nice when you get there--just follow the trail.

Don't purchase anything from Chilo the Zapotec surfer boy or Stateside John if you can help it. In fact, avoid Stateside John--an enfeebled, geriatric, dreadlocked hippie--altogether unless you'd like to hear his B.S. stories and pleas for money. If you must buy, tell the salesperson that you'll be staying for longer than you really are and that, while you will make daily purchases, you'll want to buy an extraordinarily huge amount just before you leave to take with you.

As for the surrounding communities, such as Puerto Angel, you can go there if you want to contend with native hustlers and dumbshit tourists. But, just a suggestion, find a place in Zipolite where you can rent a hammock cheaply and enjoy the quiet and solitude. There's even a trailer park north of the road that runs by Lola's. Listen for the mechanical, factory sound of the Hurraca bird.

There is one American who lives in Zipolité, Derek Brockett. He is an English professor at Universidad del Mar in Puerto Angel. He's a very private person but if you run across him (he looks just like Buddy Holly) he would probably give some advice.

Most importantly, know Spanish before you go because nobody, I mean nobody, speaks English here.

commba@ionet.net
November 1998

How Things Are in Zipolite and Area

How is Zipolite? Is the sand still there? Zipolite is doing fine and the beach is still there.

Shambala was badly hit by the hurricane last year but Gloria has done an incredible job in putting back the pieces and it is open and receiving guests again, though it still need more work as many other places on the beach.

The roads from Puerto Escondido and Huatulco are clear but in very bad shape. Now it takes two and a half hours to go to Puerto Escondido when it used to take just one. The road to Huatulco is slightly better but also has many holes in it.

You can still get here by bus from Mexico City but it takes longer time than usual (over 14 hours). I would recommend that he travel by plane to Huatulco if possible. It is definitely safer.

Bring a good sunblock (over No. 30) and mosquito repellent. There have been an unusual number of Malaria cases this year so it is important to protect oneself from mosquitos and maybe bring malaria tablets. The kind of Malaria we have here at the coast is called Vivax and it is curable. (You take cloro-quinine for five days).

Anna Johansson de Cano
"Pina Palmera" A.C.
pinapalmera@laneta.apc.org
Webpages: http://palmera.webway.se and http://www.laneta.apc.org/pina/
November 5, 1998

Highway Update

Carretera 175 Cerrado, Retenes Militares, El Cielo, y Más

Estuve en Zipo desde el Lunes 13 hasta el Jueves 16 de este mes; me encontré algunas novedades que quiero compartir: La carretera que vá de Salina Cruz a Huatulco ya está casi totalmente reparada y esto significa más que estar simplemente tapados los baches; se volvió a asfaltar, quedando tan bien que permite desarrollar una velocidad promedio de 100 Km/Hr, con lo que el recorrido de Salina a Zipo se reduce a unas tres o tres y media horas. Un aplauso para el Gobierno de Oaxaca, pues esta vía es realmente importante, de hecho no hay otra carretera para hacer este recorrido. Por otra parte, nos encontramos durante este recorrido con 3 retenes militares; los soldados te piden alto total, bajarte del coche y te revisan guantera, cajuela y te abren las maletas. También encontramos, pero del lado del Istmo retenes de Policía Judicial; estos no te bajan necesariamente (a menos que se trate de autobuses), pero si te cuestionan de donde vienes, tu nombre, ocupación y destino, en mi caso hasta me pidieron mi credencial de elector y mi identificación del lugar donde trabajo. Recomendé a mi esposa y a mi amigo, desde que vimos el primer retén no decir que ibamos a Zipo, si no a Puerto Angel por lo que te comentaré más adelante en esta misma carta. El tiempo de recorrido saliendo de Orizaba para el viaje de ida fue de 10 horas, descontando el alto para comer que hicimos en La Crucecita (recomiendo ampliamente el restaurante El Oasis, contra esquina del parque). Nos hospedamos nuevamente con Lino Ortíz en la posada Lola's. Los precios por habitación continúan igual que la última vez ($100.00 por noche) y aunque la comida ya subió un poco, sigue siendo tan bien servida y buena como te platiqué. Realmente el único detalle desagradable son los problemas con el agua corriente a los baños, está un poco sucia y presenta algunos gusanitos de esos llamados "alfilerillos". En esta ocasión traté de conocer más el otro extremo de la playa; comí en el restaurante La Choza tiene magnifica comida y excelente ubicación; me encontré que tienen cuartos para alquilar en $120.00 por noche y estacionamiento con vigilancia. También comimos pizzas en Gemini, las recomiendo mucho. Con respecto a los mosquitos esta vez nos dejaron en paz; Bayer elabora un repelente llamado "Autan" que demostró plenamente su eficacia. Para dormir usamos la combinación de plaquetas para quemador eléctrico y "Raidolitos", además de untarnos Vaporrub en piernas y brazos. Una pequeña sorpresa (aunque de cierta forma ya la esperaba) fue el ofrecimiento por parte de un joven muy conspicuo de "mota de la mejor a $100.00 el carrujo", peyote, goma de opio y hongos alucinógenos. Este personaje, según me contaron es nativo de la región y hace sus negocios con algunos turistas quienes le compran su mercancia. Yo no le quise comprar, no tanto por escrúpulos o aversión a la droga, si no por que se me hizo muy raro que estuviera ofreciendo abiertamente sus productos cuando a menos de media hora de camino me encontré al más cercano retén militar. Además cuando nos habló, noté que otra persona de mala catadura se acercaba, por lo que definitivamente desconfié. Después, cuando platiqué de esto a una amistad que vive en Zipo, me comentó que de ese lado de la playa han habido recientemente varios muertos por sobre dosis de droga, que posiblemente si esto se intensifica pudiera dar lugar a la llegada (Dios nos libre) de tropa y judiciales a la playa. Por estas situaciones, recomiendo que no se responda que se va a Zipolite cuando se pregunte en los retenes. Otro lugar que visitamos para comer fué la casa de Kali López en Puerto Angel: El Cañón de Vata; se trata de un lugar magnífico, no encuentro palabras para describir su belleza natural. Esta vez trepamos hasta la terraza El Cielo, donde se ve toda la playa "El Panteón", llamada así porque es el lugar donde está el cementerio de Puerto Angel. Para llegar a Zipo en autobus, definitivamente recomiendo arribar desde Salina Cruz. La carretera Oaxaca - Pochutla [175] está cerrada, y la de Oaxaca Puerto Escondido tiene tramos peligrosos. Además ambas vías son muy solitarias y se expone uno a ser asaltado o algo peor. Zipolite es precioso; es un lugar que se lleva en el alma; es un estado mental, un virus que se mete en la sangre de todos los que lo hemos conocido, no bien acabas de regresar de tu último viaje y ya estás planeando tu regreso, con todos los ánimos de quedarte allí de por vida.

Translation: I was in Zipo from Monday 13 until Thursday 16 of this month; I have some news that I want to share: The highway from Salina Cruz to Huatulco is already almost completely repaired and this involved more than just covering the potholes with asphalt again. The condition is so good that you can attain an average speed of 100 Km/Hr. This cuts the drive from Salina to Zipo to about three or three and a half hours. This is a credit to the Government of Oaxaca. This road is really important, in fact there is no other highway available to make this trip. On the other hand, we experienced 3 military roadblocks; the soldiers request that you stop, get out of the car, and they search your glove compartment, trunk, and open your suitcases. We also found, on the isthmus side Judicial Police stops; they don't necessarily search you (except for buses), but they question you about where you are coming from, your name, occupation and destination. They, in my case, requested my voter registration and my employment identification. I recommended to my wife and to my friend, after the first search that we don't say that we're going to Zipo, but to Puerto Angel. More about this later on in this email. The travel time from Orizaba to Zipo was 10 hours, not counting the stop in La Crucecita to eat (I highly recommend the restaurant The Oasis, at the corner of the square). We stayed again with Lino Ortíz in the hotel Lola's. The price remains the same as the last time ($100.00 pesos per night) and although the food has gone up a little, the food and service are as good as ever. Really the only negative thing is the problems with the tap water, which is a little dirty and you get some worms from those called "alfilerillos." [small, thin, dark worms with red head] This time I tried to get to know more about the other end of the beach. I ate in the restaurant La Choza. It has great food and an excellent location. I found that they have rooms to rent for $120.00 pesos per night and parking with security. We also ate pizzas in Gemini, which I recommend highly. With regard to the mosquitos; this time they left us in peace. Bayer makes a repellent called "Autan" that is very effective. In order to sleep we used the combination of plaquetas for the electric burner and "Raidolitos," besides applying Vaporrub to legs and arms. A small surprise (although I had somewhat expected it) was the offer on the part of a very conspicuous youth of a package of marijuana cigarettes for $100.00 pesos, peyote, opium, and hallucinogenic mushrooms. This guy. I am told, is native of the region and does business with some tourists who buy his merchandise. I didn't want to buy, not so much for scruples or aversion to the drug, but for the concern that he was offering his products openly when less than an hour ago I was at the nearest military checkpoint. Also when we he spoke, I noticed that another nasty-looking person was approaching, whom I definitely distrusted. Later, when I spoke of this to a friend that lives in Zipo, he commented that on that end of the beach there has recently been several deaths due to drug overdose, and that possibly if this intensifies it could result in the influx (God help us) of troops and judiciaries to the beach. For these reasons, I recommend that you not say that you were in Zipolite when at military checkpoints. Another place that we ate at was Kali López's place in Puerto Angel: El Cañón de Vata. It is a magnificent place. I can't find the words to describe it's natural beauty. This time we climbed up to the terrace El Cielo, where you can see the whole beach, "El Panteón," so called because it is where the Puerto Angel cemetery is. In order to get to Zipo by bus, I recommend coming from Salina Cruz. The Oaxaca to Pochutla highway [Hwy 175] is closed, and the one from Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido has dangerous washed out places. Also both roads are very remote and you are exposed to the possibility of assault or worse. Zipolite is beautiful; it is a place that is held in the soul; it is a state of mind, a virus that enters in the blood of all those that we have known it, as soon as you have completed your last trip you are already planning your return, with all the spirits remaining there for life.

Carlos S. Castillo Cruz. Orizaba. México
cuquin1@prodigy.net.mx
Julio 1998

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Rancho Cerro Largo, Mazunte

I've stayed at Rancho Cerro Largo a couple of times, and was hoping to return. It is a beautiful natural spot outside of Mazunte, Oaxaca, run by Mario Corella. I was wondering if anyone would have information about how they fared with the hurricanes of 1997, and whether they are open for guests.

Louise Rice
ricewing@worldnet.att.net
July 1998

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Palapa Aris

On the first side "Playa Zipolite" you made a list of "places to stay and eat"...but I miss the Palapa I stayed at for two weeks. It's called Palapa Aris, and placed in the middle of the beach. They rent large, clean cabanas to 40 Pesos and hammocks to 10 and 15 Pesos. They do have really good meals (25 and 30 Pesos) and large breakfast meals. I tell you this, because the family who owns this were very nice to me! They have two small children, and although I couldn't speak Spanish, we didn't have any problem. I took pictures of them, and....

(Andi) Andreas Crepax
xaperc@hotmail.com
Vienna/Austria
June 1998

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Fishing Question

I have lived in Xalapa, Veracruz for the better part of the past two years, and have had several friends visit Zipolite. I just have to come there for a few weeks.

My question is this: I am an avid "light tackle" fisherman. Are there many fresh-water lagoons which may house Black Bass? In particular I am looking for a species that is found in Southern Mexico and Central America---in the USA we call them "Peacock" Bass. They are large, going upward of 7 kilos, and are brilliant in color. I do not know the Spanish name for this species. Can you help me out on this?

I should arrive in mid-September and plan on staying until the 1st of the year. Any info would be greatly appreciated .

Larry W. Phillips
LarryMex@webtv.net
June 1998

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Old Friends!

I was recently looking through the visitors comments section, of this page that is so full of wonderful memories for me, and I came across a note that was to me and some other of my friends. I can't begin to tell you how excited I was to have a way to get in touch with a friend I could only hope to bump into by chance.

Last year I spent almost the whole month of August on the beach in Zipolite. And as so many others it had begun as a two-day stay. We arrived and checked into Shambala. We hung our hammocks and went to explore the area. We didn't get far, we ran into a friend from Puerto Escondido, Mario, the brother-in-law of the current owner of La Nata. We, myself and my friends Stephanie and Lisa, sat down with Mario and the current owner of La Nata, Carlos, and had a couple of beers. Carlos pulled out his guitar and he, Mario and Stephanie took turns playing and singing. Needless to say we all became instant friends. Mario was there to say goodbye before he moved to San Cristobal de las Casas with his new wife, Francesca, to open their own bar. So it was kind of a going away and a welcome to the beach celebration rolled into one.

The next day we discovered that the beautiful "Robinson Caruso" Style Cabana was available so we moved to Lo Cosmico. The Cabana was dubbed "The Castle" and our thoughts of a two day stay were fading quickly. To say we got sucked into the magic that is Zipolite is not really an adequate description of what happened. The funny thing is that as our stay drew on, some of the people we had met away from Zipolite started to wander in as well it definitely had us under it's spell. The fact that there was a full moon coming up and we organized a big party at La Nata with live acoustic and amplified music made us feel such a part of the place that I have promised to go back and work at La Nata sometime in the near future.

Stephanie and I, spent a good deal of time at La Nata. During the day we would work on making our leather bracelets and necklaces and at night we would drink the most delicious margaritas and daiquiris made anywhere in the world. Organizing the Full Moon Party and being in there for so long we met some really great people! The sad thing is that we have no way to be in touch with most of them.

So if any of this sounds familiar to you please drop me a note. We, Stephanie and myself, are going to make it back there in late August this year. It would be so great to meet up with some "Old Friends". We have some fun pictures of our stay in Zipolite and would love to exchange them with you. The pictures and stories are not there yet but they will be up on our web site soon. The site is found at www.passthehat.org, and like I said we are working to get new stuff up there soon!

Zipolite will always be one of my favorite places in the world. And I smile whenever I think of the people I met there- Carlos, Elvia, Sebastian, Danny and Bobby, Daniel, Mountain Boy, Nathan, Hannah, Lemon Pie Girl, Island Boy (Richard), Ghandi, Mario-the jewelery maker, the list goes on and on. I can only hope that if you visit Zipolite you will experience the same magic as I did. If I don't see you there this summer ther is always the next time because there will always be another visit to Zipolite.

Kathy K
kookyk@passthehat.org
June 1998

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Highway175 Update

Missing Person: Jonathan Crane FOUND

Anna Johansson de Cano
Director, Piña Palmera
pinapalmera@laneta.apc.org
April 1998

Un Amor Perdido en Zipolite [A Lost Love in Zipolite]

Jessica Marcelli S.
jessca44@yahoo.com
Guadalajara, Jalisco
Abril 1998

Greetings from Heather

Heather Rice
Minneapolis/Madison
hezboo@itis.com
April 1998

Viajar con Bebé

Solo dos situaciones no me gustaron: la primera es que encontré la playa bastante "fresa", solo conté 4 desnudistas, todos hombres (incluido un servidor), ninguna dama que alegrara la vista, lástima.

El otro problema fue el mal estado de la carretera que va de Salina Cruz a Pochutla; elegí esta ruta debido a que según sabía la carretera de la sierra Oaxaca - Pochutla estaba cerrada al tránsito debido a los deslaves provocados por los huracanes; pues bien, una ponchadura (rajadura más bien) con la consiguiente pérdida de una llanta y tiempo nos retrasó mucho en el viaje de regreso. Definitivamente no recomiendo la circulación por ese camino, está lleno de baches, algunos con objetos metálicos en el interior, como en el que desafortunadamente cayó mi coche.

Para aquellos padres de bebés que quieran ir, tengo algunos consejos prácticos:

1. Lleven repelente de mosquitos (todo el que puedan), hay mucho mosquito y, tal vez la posibilidad de dengue. Los "raidolitos" o Baygones eléctricos no afectan a estos bravos mosquitos costeros.

2. Para el bebé lleven un bloqueador solar factor 30 ó superior.

3. También conviene llevar una cubeta especial para el baño del bebé, así como un calentador de agua eléctrico, de esos que se sumergen en el líquido (son muy baratos).

4. El agua para tomar y preparar biberones no es problema, ya hay dotación constante a las tiendas de Zipo de agua de beber embotellada ("Cristal" o "Risco").

5. Si de todas formas pican los moscos, conviene llevar loción de Caladryl's y/o Vick Vaporrub para calmar la picazón. No dejen que el bebé se rasque, se pondrá peor la picadura.

6. Definitivamente NO lleven exceso de ropa para el bebé, pues hace mucho calor, pero si conviene llevar un juego de sus sábanas, así como sus propias almohadas y algunos juguetes. Un porta-bebé no está de más, sobre todo al estar en la playa.

7. No lleven carreolas ni andaderas ni nada metálico, pues el salitre afecta severamente este tipo de aparatos.

Mi experiencia con el bebé, salvo las picaduras de mosquitos fue magnífica, de hecho, tanto mi esposa como yo queríamos que esta fuera la playa donde mi "peque" conociera el mar, y él no nos defraudó, pues estuvo muy a gusto.

Tenemos pensado regresar en Julio (el día 8 saldremos para allá), pero me gustaría ensayar la ruta de la sierra. Necesito saber si alguien que la recorrió recientemente puede contactar conmigo para hacerme algún comentario.

Saludos.
Carlos S. Castillo Cruz.
cuquin1@prodigy.net.mx
Orizaba, Ver.
Marzo 1998

Back in the Old Days

Loco Guillermo
william@texramp.net
February 1998

Zipolite¡Te Amo!

También conocí a Alvaro, un dirigente de los salvavidas voluntarios que cuidan a lo visitantes que nos adentramos en las aguas del mar de Zipolite. Alvaro también es un pescador único, gracias al cual pudimos disfrutar de verdaderos manjares del mar.

Año Nuevo lo pasamos con Luis, quien está viviendo en casa del Chido en lo que termina de reconstruir su casa que fue destruida por Paulina. Luis vende unos Batiks hermosísimos estampados en tela. Gracias a Luis tuvimos una fogata poca madre para recibir 1998.

De regreso a la civilización pensé: ¡Qué melancolía! ¿por qué tuvimos que abandonar el paraiso? Ahora sé que la melancolía podría ser la añoranza de volver al "Zipolite" que todos llevamos dentro. Ese rincón donde puedes encontrar una puerta para salirte por un momento del sistema. Una vez que has visitado tu "Zipolite" interno, regresas al sistema capaz de criticarlo hasta el hartazgo.

Todos los mexicanos, todo el mundo, deberíamos de visitar Zipolite más seguido, para disfrutar de esta puerta de salida y regresar a la vida cotidiana, con el placer de haber estado en el paraiso por un momento. Por favor hagan llegar estos saludos a todos estos amigos de Zipolite. Cuidemos mucho a Zipolite para que no caiga en lo convencional.

Rafael Núñez
Un mexicano más
rafanune@mex1.uninet.net.mx
Febrero 1998

La Celebracion del Año Nuevo

Zipolite ha sido el lugar donde dio inicio un libro que estoy escribiendo referente a la astronomia, pues en varias ocasiones he dado platicas en la playa con ese impresionante cielo estrellado.

Sergio De Los Santos
Mexico D.F.
smsantos@mail.intranet.com.mx

Zipolite is OK

Natasha
natashacass@hotmail.com
January 1998

Anybody Going to Zipolite?

Mal L Shaw
MalLShaw@aol.com
January 9, 1998

Looking for brother in San Augustinillo

Roberta Marini
roberta@ronchiato.it
December 29, 1997

Shambhala Newsletter

Damage Report

What's up and what's not...

La Choza, Tao, La Pacheca and Emmanuelle (to name a few) are all down. People are working diligently around the clock in order to re-open, but sadly what's going up is concrete and rebar, and not the grass huts that used to line the entire beach. These buildings are definitely an eyesore and take a lot of the charm out of Zipolite.

Lyoban, Posada San Cristobal and Roca Blanca are some of the few places that are currently operating. These places were very busy during my stay due to the lack of options. The food is still very good but prices have gone up some. I believe they may go down as soon as there is some more competition later on in the month.

La Puesta and 3 de Diciembre are open. El Nuevo Sol is pretty much gone. Only the concrete floor remains. Lo Cósmico was closed when I was there but I heard that it was scheduled to open some time this week.

The Beach...

The actual beach was not affected by the hurricanes. I had heard rumors that half of it had disappeared into the ocean, but luckily it's still there and just as beautiful as always. Most of the palm trees are there but have obviously been affected by the weather. You can tell which way the wind was blowing by the direction they are leaning towards. Most have lost their leaves.

I went by Piña Palmera and saw a lot of damage there. Again, though, I saw some people cleaning the area and commence the rebuilding process.

I know Zipo will get back on its feet. It makes me a bit sad, however, to see what's becoming of the landscape. I am genuinely happy for the success that the locals are having but I hope greed does not lead to the demise of such a beautiful place.

I plan to go back sometime in the Summer of '98. If there's anyone out there who may be going please drop me a line. Maybe Andrew, Nadia or Danny?

Mike
San Francisco
michael_loria@yr.com
December 11,1997

Shambala Visions

Thank you for all your concerns, about the results of the Hurricanes, 'Paulina' and 'Rick', We are so blessed to be alive! Shambala's destruction is approximately 70%. All roofs or palm and some cabanas are gone. Tile roofs in repair now, with what was left to pick up. We are working everyday to prepare for your visit of our 'Offering Day Celebration' held every year. Only hamock spaces will be available and if it is possible, please bring your own tents, mosquito nets and sheets. We have bottled purified water, and the kitchen is almost together. Remember for many of you...This is your Zipolite home in Mexico.

Shambala and Zipolite need our friends, so we can rebuild your little paradise again. We have learned so very much from these hurricanes, I believe it's a living experience we can never learn from books or breathing excercizes.

Thank you again, for your interest and concern. Love, Light and Peace, Gloria

Carta abierta a Los Amigos de Shambala:

Esta 70 perciento destruido. El restautante esta listo, solo hay especacio para hamacas, triga sus propios sabanas-o-casas de campanas, por favor. Shambala es su casa en Zipolite. Y todo Zipolite ahora nesescita la ayuda en estos tiempos, cuando vienen de vacaciones. Estamos vivos.

Mandamos: Amor, Luz y Paz, Gloria y Familia Shambala

Stormy Marriage (Hurricane Rick)

Tony and I were staying in Jerry and Marilyn Gainer's house on the beach at Playa Rincón in Mazunte, next to Hubert's place. The morning of Nov 9th we were told that Rick was coming and to be prepared by noon, three hours away. We secured our window shutters and went over to San Augustinillo to warn Tom and Maureen (from Alberta). They were tenting at Dominga's on the beach. While there, the army arrived to warn everyone...so this time there was lots of warning. Tom and Maureen moved into Gainer's place with us and we spent the afternoon playing cards, singing and generally whiled away the entire afternoon and evening waiting for Rick. During that time we still had power and were able to tune into the Pochutla radio station, for minute by minute updates of Rick. Part of the warning broadcast was in Zapotec for the people in the outlying villages that did not speak Spanish. By early evening it was raining very hard and small gusts of wind came and went . . the power also went. We were well stocked with candles so with the windows all boarded up and the door closed at least we were able to have some light.

At approx. 9PM Rick arrived. The sound was terrifying. Also, we could no longer hear the waves crashing on the beach because the wind was so loud. Good thing no one was claustrophobic. Rick huffed and puffed and tried to blow our house down just like the big bad wolf. Tom and Maureen headed up to the loft to sleep but were soon downstairs again, sleeping on mats under the table. Some of the roof had blown away and the wind upstairs was terrible. So we closed the loft hatch and feeling the drops of rain coming through the ceiling, we all slept for awhile. In retrospect, it seems strange that we were able to sleep, but we had all accepted the reality of Rick and knew that there was nothing we could do about it. We didn't even know at that point if we had a roof or not. A few hours later, it was all over. We all headed outside to see what had happened and also to find out whether or not the ocean was still 100 yards away where it belonged. Small bit of damage to the roof, a bit more of the adobe stucco gone, palm fronds everywhere, huge waves pounding the beach and sending water right up to where the small rock wall used to be. All of the liter on the beach, that had been raked up after Pauline, that had not yet been burned was again strewn about everywhere. Generally, not too much further damage suffered by anyone in that small community.

The main road through Mazunte and San Aug. were again covered in mud and the remaining potholes got a lot bigger but the road was still passable. The new roofing material in most people's yards was damaged and roofs that had been partially repaired would have to be redone. The turtle museum had been covered with huge tarps, so no further damage occurred.

Two weeks later: Mazunte and San Aug. have never looked so clean. All the mud has been removed from the road and the curbs and palm trees have been painted white. Huge work crews of locals in both communities have been working everyday from sunup to sundown. The local garbage truck is constantly being filled with the debris of both Hurricanes and also years and years worth of garbage. San Aug. even has a sidewalk on one side of the road now. People have begun to rebuild their homes with all of the new roofing material and lumber that was delivered by the truck load for several days (18 wheeler trucks, not the local pickups!) The dirt road to Rincón Beach has been widened and leveled. I spent Monday of this week painting the bottom of the palm trees at Rincón. Yes, there is still work to be done, but the last two weeks were amazing.

To all the friends that Tony and I have met in the last five years in the area: We were married at sunset on Nov. 19th in front of Gainer's casita in Mazunte at Rincón beach. We will leave the frozen North and return to the area in January for three months. See you then.

Helen McNamara (formerly Howard)
Quesnel, British Columbia, Canada
hhoward@quesnelbc.com
November 29, 1997

Looking for old Friends

I am from the North of England and I met Richard (also from there originally) who at the time was building his island. I have heard that it went to sea as planned during the hurricane but that he stayed behind, I wish him the best of luck in everything that he does.

Zipolite is a nice place to waste away the summer, I never felt threatened being alone and I met so many people who looked out for me that it didn't matter. It's strange because I lost my address book on the way home and now the whole thing seems like a dream because I have no contact with the people I spent that time with. If they are reading this I hope that they will get in touch and we can meet again in the summer if they are going back... I will be.

Hannah Price
Hannah.Price@kcl.ac.uk
November 1997

A little Local Humor

Hubert L
November 1997

Transport needed for Donation to Piña Palmera

I am organizing the "routing to Zipolite" of these goods. I have a lead that may get us some free shipping (I don't have an answer yet on Mexicana Airlines-but still working on it), however if anybody else can offer "shipping these goods to Zipolite all at once" please contact me asap so we can immediately send this donation to Anna.

Here's Arbonne's message:

Mina,

I represent a company based in Aliso Viejo, California. We are a personal care company and have items such as shampoo, cleansing gels, facial care, lotions and vitamins. We have quite a bit a "damaged" inventory that may be of use to Pina Palmera. These "damaged" goods cannot be sold due to packaging flaws but are in perfectly good condition otherwise.

Have you been able to arrange an air shipment with Mexicana Airlines? Also, before we can make a delivery we will need a transmission from Pina Palmera that you are able to accept these items on their behalf and a transmission from them once the items are received. Just a formality.

Please let me know if these items are needed and if we will be able to make delivery.

Warmest Regards,
Joy Zimmerman
Director of Events & Programs
Arbonne International, Inc.

From: Mina Diaz de Rivera
pleiades80@hotmail.com

Necesitamos Visitantes

Gracias por sus mensajes y donaciones. Las necesidades son muchas todavia. Ya hemos pasado por dos hurracanes aunque el segundo no era tan intenso como el primero pero tambien hizo mucho daño. No hubo muertos pero la gente se desanimo mucho. Todos lo recien compuesto se rompio otra vez. El mar subio hasta la casa de Lino (restaurante Lola) y mojo todos sus cuartos. Ellos se refugiarion en un albergue. Ahora ya han regresado a su casa y estan limpiando y secando todo. Tia Maria y su familia estan bien. Luis Prado y su esposa, como muchos mas, estan tristes porque sus techos se volvieron a destruir otra vez. La familia Salinas (tio Chano, Juana y Ana Laura) estan bien. Algunas de sus casitas se volvieron a caer con el segundo huracan. El restaurante de Felipa sufrio muchisimos daños, realmente ya no existe. Lo Cosmico tambien tuvieron muchos perdidas, especialmente sus cabañas. Estan trabajando para reabrir su restaurante en Diciembre.

Zipolite necesita visitantes. Todos estan trabajando duro para volver a abrir sus restaurantes y los cuartos. Ya esta funcionando el disco La Puesta y la posada San Cristobal. Tres de Diciembre estan haciendo pizzas y tienen una cabana para rentar. Geminis estan haciendo pizzas para llevar nada mas. La Choza va a abrir pronto.

Todo esta funcionando en Pochutla; los bancos, las tiendas, los taxis, los micros, los correos y el mercado. Las carreteras se encuentran en muy mal estado pero ya hay paso a Pto Escondido y a Salina Cruz otra vez. Hotel Soraya, Villa Florencia y Hotel Puesta del Sol en Puerto Angel estan funcionando normalmente.

Si vienen a visitar esta area es importante traer sombrero, mosquiteros (pabellon), sleeping, sabanas y lampara de mano. Es bueno traer tiendas de campana porque no hay muchos cuartos para rentar.

Casi toda la gente en Zipolite y Mazunte depende de sus visitantes y ahora todos necesitan gente con mucho animo y ganas de ayudar para apoyar en la limpieza y en la reconstruccion de toda la zona. Se necesita especialmente albañiles, electricistas y mecanicos. Personas que saben dar masajes o curar en otras formas tambien hace mucha falta. Tambien necesitamos personas capacitados en horticultura que sepan hacer huertos familiares y compostas.

Si quieres obtener mas informacion acerca de esta area puedes consultar: Web page: The Pacific Coast of Oaxaca, Mexico: http://www.eden.com/~tomzap/index.html

Si quieres saber mas acerca de Piña Palmera puedes buscar en: http://palmera.webway.se o en http://www.laneta.apc.org./pina/

Bienvenidos!
Saludos de
Anna Johansson de Cano
pinapalmera@laneta.apc.org
13 Noviembre, 1997

Tambien pueden escribir a Kali Lopez de La Posada Canon de Vata en Puerto Angel: lopezk@spin.com.mx o a Hector Marcheli de Ecosolar (Mazunte) ecosolar@laneta.apc.org para obtener mas informacion.

Hurricane Rick

Tom Penick
tom@tomzap.com
November 10, 1997

Hurricane Rick in Puerto Escondido

"Everything is normal," he said. "We had very little damage. Everything in Escondido is normal this morning, power, telephone. It is nothing like Paulina a few weeks ago."

Brian J. Larkin
Washington, DC
BJLarkin@juno.com
November 10, 1997

First Pauline, Now Rick

After packing we had a big meeting where we decided where everyone were to spend the night. All the disabled children went to Adalberto's house that since last hurricane proved itself to be a safe place. All the others decided to stay in "casa nueva" because even if we were going to be flooded again we now know that if we wait, the water-level will sink as soon as the "barra" opens. (The barra is the sand from the beach that builds up and closes the river's opening to the ocean.) Everybody is fine. Although I thought that this hurricane was scary (the noise is terrifying) others, that went through Pauline, said that this was less than half as bad. It didn't last as long either,

Carlos and Marlene lost their car in a river-bed when they tried to reach the Palmgrove last night. They escaped unharmed and we will try to save the car. It is a VW so I am sure it will survive. Many newly repaired roofs flew off again, both in the Palmgrove and everywhere else. We have no electricity as our own internal temporary installation was damaged and several electrical poles outside are close to falling down. But we do have plenty of drinking water, food and blankets since the last storm. Now I will go back to the Palmgrove to help cleaning. It looks like a garbage dump again... Love to you all and I will try to communicate as much as I can but this is keeping me buzy.

Anna
Piña Palmera
November 10, 1997

Anyone know Maria & Luis?

Thanks for your reply. I received an answer from Ms. Anna Johansson and she told me about my friends in Zipolite. They are okay, but their house suffered some damage (they have a hostel in Zipolite, its name is Montebello). If you know something about them through your internet friends, please let me know as soon as possible, because Anna has been very busy with the rebuilding of Pina Palmera, and I don't want to distract her.

They are Ms. Maria del Carmen Aguilar Lopez and her husband is Mr. Francisco (Luis) Prado, they live in Montebello, beside "La Choza", their home is in front of "La Puesta". If you have any more information about them, please send me a reply. Thanks a lot and I look forward to hear from you.

Regards,
Veronica Monjaras-Garcia.
monjaras.veronica_at_geimm@mlink.motors.ge.com
November 1997

How is the TAO?

My husband and I were visitors to Zipolite in February, 1996 and December, 1996. We fell in love with the area (especially the beach at San Agustín) and we are hoping to go back once more in Jan/Feb, 1998. Our goal is to eventually spend 6 months of the year there and to involve ourselves with a service project that would contribute to the local community. We are open to suggestions!?

We are interested in knowing, from travelers or those working down there, what is the condition of the TAO (especially Lorenzo and Linda) and what has happened to the restaurants on the beach in San Agustín?

Mrs. Guske
richardg@efn.org
November 1997

Kali has Email

I thought you would like to know that Kali now also has e-mail. Her address is: lopezk@spin.com.mx I visited her and Suzanne and grandma yesterday and they are doing fine. Recuperating. Their goal is to reopen the Posada around the 15th of December. It is different. All the rooms has ocean view. In Piña Palmera the work with cleaning fallen palmtrees and other debris has advanced at a good pace. Special thanks to Shawn Spitzer and Richard Saunders that helped both the Posada and Piña Palmera come back together. In Piña we also send greetings and thanks to Eric Ulrich, Jan and Eric's crew from Oaxaca, that still are working hard in the palmgrove.

Love to you all
Anna
October 27, 1997

Things are Looking up for Visitors

Conditions here are constantly improving. Tia Maria is doing fine. Her house did apparently not suffer as much damage as the rest. I am sure that you can have a good vacation here in December. Just make sure to bring mosquito-net and repellent and a hat and a good sun-screen. There is not much shadow left as many trees and palms were damaged. Bring your own bed-sheets and sleeping-bag too. Remember to drink only purified water (and to brush your teeth in purified water too.) and be careful when you eat raw vegetables.

Comunications to and from Pochutla work just fine. The banks and stores are open. Zipolite and surrounding villages now have electricty. A few restaurants like San Cristobal and La Choza did not suffer much damage and have already reopened. Others will surely open in December. La Puesta is also reopening soon. Felipa suffered severe damage, everything is gone. Shambala suffered a lot of damage too but it is quickly coming together and I am sure they will be able to receive visitors soon. Lo Cosmico lost several cabanas as well as Tres de Diciembre. Both are working hard to reopen their restaurants as soon as possible. It is harder to find a place to stay than before and a lot of beautiful thatched palm roofs are gone and replaced with asbestos or carton-sheets. The beach looks better already.

Wellcome back!
Anna
Piña Palmera
October 27, 1997

Old Friends in Zipolite

Thanks for this wonderful presentation of the coast of Oaxaca. It has been a year since I stayed in Zipolite. In late October 96 I had the time of my life because of this place. It breaks my heart to hear that our beach is destroyed by the hurricane. My friend, May Hege, and I went all the way from Norway to travel around Mexico. After a week we found Zipolite. The first night was horrible, we didn't like it at all (now I don't know why), but we ended up staying there for 9 days. Ever since I have lived in a "post-Zipolite" state. I can't get my mind off this place. The hammocks at San Cristobal where we stayed, the pan frances, the spaghetti carbonara is one thing; the blue nights at the beach drinking Dos Equis, the mysterious guy playing the bongos and the feeling of not knowing what day it is, is another thing. If people asked us what time it was, we answered "weeeell, half past friday, maybe...?". You don't need anything in Zipolite. You can just stay there.

I wonder what the people we met are doing now. Robin and Carina from Denmark, Michael and Steffen from Germany, Guy from Israel, Derek and Eric from USA, Alex from Italy, Rob and his sister from Australia. Ermanno from Italy am I still in contact with. The pictures and him are the remainings I have from Zipolite. Write to me if anybody reads this and know some of these people or if you were in Zipolite at this time! I fell in love with Zipolite. I will come back.

Yours sincerely,

Trine Merete Forfod
Norway
tforfod@hepp.uio.no
October 1997

Email Address Problem?

I was reading your letters about Zipolite and I recognized some people tine was writing about and I can't seem to get through to her. I was wondering if you had her address (e-mail of course) and I would respond but if you don't well, oh well I guess. Her address on your your Zipolite Mexico page was tforfod@hepp.uio.no Any ideas?

Thanks 4 your time dude.

Wayne Allen
wwallen65@hotmail.com
December 1997

Fax from Zipolite

we also got an email today from the Slade Child Foundation, saying that donations have been pouring in, and giving their email and website and address for tax deductible donations (otra vez!) (checks to "Slade Foundation for Pina Palmera" will go to pp)

Please pass this and other stuff we've sent about the storm etc along your email nets...this is so amazing! the cyberspace world wide web for real in action...

thanks again, love, thorny and jane
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Received at casa colonial, oaxaca, on 10/17/97 from valerie nadeau & shawn spitzer

Report from Puerto Angel and Zipolite. All previous reports were totally inaccurate: Puerto is COMPLETELY devastated and Zipolite is destroyed (not my words)....ALL the big trees are either toppled over or de-branched....all have been stripped of leaves. It looks like a giant egg-beater did a number on the entire countryside....the destruction is really beyond belief. The Piña looks like a giant "pick-up-stick" game and the Posada now has no shade and all bugalows have ocean (bay) views. There are literally no roofs intact in this area, and the rain & wind swept everyone's possessions all over the place. The road (to get here) was not bad [they went via salina cruz] and there is lots of food and drinking water available. Electricity should be back on tomorrow....so anyway the whole gamut of human response is very evident--the neighborly love and concern, as well as the greed.

What people need here, more than anything, is physical labor-there is just SO much cleanup to do and its REAL exhausting work. However, housing is extremely short, as you can imagine, so anyone who comes should be prepared to camp.

If another truck is coming, there IS a big demand for chain saws and roof "laminas" of ANY material. Someone can go out to Rojas and get Shawn's chain saw [it wouldn't fit in their vw bug!] if there is anyone coming soon (see Luis) and a container of 2 stroke motor oil to mix with gasoline. Anna/Balbino [the wife & husband team who are the directors of Piña Palmera] said he sent those "special hacienda forms" by Estafeta. The phone might be working here very soon - we'll call you if we can (we figure this fax will save us a 20 minute phone call!) Love to you all, V&S

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thornton & Jane Robison
Casa Colonial
Apdo. 640
Oaxaca 68000
Oaxaca, Mexico
e-mail: colonial@antequera.com
Visit our Home Page at www.mexonline.com/colonial.htm
October 18, 1997

Mis experiencias en la playa mas hermosa del mundo:

Mi primera visita a Zipo la hice en 1995, acompañado de unos amigos demasiado conservadores (snobs) más bién, quienes no pudieron soportar el choque cultural de ver cuerpos de hombres y mujeres desnudos y, haciendo gala de su morbo pretendieron tomar fotos. Por supuesto que los nudistas (y más los que estaban en parejas) se enojaron y los persiguieron, comportándose mis amigos como auténticos nerds echando a perder mi viaje.

A raíz de lo anterior, juré que en mi próximo viaje no llevaría "colas" indeseables y lo hice solo con mi esposa en calidad de luna de miel; esto fue en enero de este año. Nos hospedamos en la Posada "Lola's", propiedad del señor Lino Ortiz. Esta posada está ubicada cerca del farallón natural de rocas que separa la playa de Zipolite de la playa del Amor.

Ni decir que los tres días que pasé en Zipo han sido los más felices de mi vida. Finalmente, después de tanto buscar, había encontrado el PARAISO, tal como lo soñe. Tanto Alma (mi esposa) como yo disfrutamos de tomar el sol, yo totalmente desnudo y ella en "topless" debido a su estado de embarazo (andaba por el quinto mes).

El hospedaje fué magnífico, pagamos $100.00 pesos por dia en cuarto con baño propio, ventilador de techo y mosquiteros, a escasos 30 pasos de la playa más hermosa que mis ojos habían visto jamás. La comida excelente y barata. Hicimos amistad con un huesped austriaco del Sr. Ortíz llamado "Charlie", quien ya tenía cerca de 4 meses viviendo y disfrutando de la playa.

La belleza de los escenarios naturales de la playa era un marco perfecto para las bellezas femeninas que tomaban el sol. Tanto Alma como yo nos dimos permiso de "taquear" con los ojos, pues creemos que ver no es pecado y, siendo que también estabamos desnudos y que nuestras miradas siempre fueron discretas considero que no hubo problema.

Desgraciadamente, antes de nuestra salida puse en nuestro equipaje un filtro solar bajo, dado que mi piel es un tanto delicada al tercer dia ya podía tomar el sol, pues ya estaba muy quemado, así que no hubo más remedio que seguir nuestro paseo hacía Puerto Escondido, no sin antes hacernos la promese de que regresariamos a Zipo en cuanto nuestro Bebé tuviera 8 meses o más.

Habíamos planeado (y acariciado) el viaje para el 25 de Enero de 1988, pero de una manera cruel la naturaleza se ensañó con mi PARAISO, destruyendo sus posadas y dejando sin casa a mucha gente. Como de costumbre, el gobierno mexicano se preocupa de los RICOS, y de inmediato surtió ayuda a ACAPULCO, ignorando lo que en lugares como ZIPOLITE había pasado.

Hasta el dia de ayer nos pudimos comunicar con el Sr. Ortíz, quien nos comenta que convirtió su pòsada en albergue, que necesita ropa, zapatos, leche en polvo, linternas y baterías, cerillos, velas, medicamentos, etc. Estoy haciendo una colecta entre mi familia para enviarle por mensajería un pequeña ayuda, no puedo hacer más por el momento, pero, si algún otro mexicano como yo, amante de Zipo lee esta colaboración, le invito a hacer lo mismo, ya que si se enviara la ayuda al centro de acopio es posible que esta se destinara a otro lado.

Carlos S. Castillo Cruz
cuquin1@prodigy.net.mx
October 1997

Paulina Impressions / Zipolite Information

I need to add to people who are concerned with the conditions of relatives. Both people I checked on were AOK. Shambala is there and coming back together. Richard's Island floated away as he planned. (He wasn't on it at the time; he's in San Francisco. The lady selling the woven roots is still here, so is her friend John. San Cristobal, La Choza are rebuilding and look good soon. I'd live there now, and may later. Shambala is not a shambles. Gloria and the birds and dog and her friends had a harrowing time. Three women and a baby, trying to hold onto a roof. They finally ran for it. And made it. The books are OK.

Lots of fugatas every night. During the day it hurts my eyes. Texas Baptist Mens' Groups were here to work on water purification in the distant villages. I went to the airport to get tickets to LA for four weeks and I met these guys, and made a note of the many tractor trailers in the lot. It looks like a truck stop in the desert of the Western US. Lots of great response to the needs of the area. Hard to detail the details. But I was impressed. Also by all the guys with guns. There was highway patrol, traffic police, army, marines, regular police, state police. It got too confusing. But they had guns. I think everyone was very polite to each other during this whole event.

There have been effective people contacting through email. I don't think its appropriate to name you. But you have made a difference. People are arriving now to help out in the reconstruction. Bring a tent. I wonder if Herb Cain felt this way. There was no place that escaped serious damage. If you loved a place, project, or idea here, I suggest you support it.

Volunteers getting soaking wet while cleaning out the cocina with a hose from the working water pump. I know there was an incorrect phone number for Slade Children Fund, I will get that dealt with by this printing. For the next week, ending on Wed. I will try to get out as much information as I can. It gives me a chance to meet people I hadn't met. Signing off until I get more juice, David Grant

It's morning, Eric, Jan and a bunch of folks from Oaxaca arrived and are beginning to sort out the electricity, redo roofs. They brought a pickup and young men are gathering up broken branches and basura and carting it away. It rained last night, and we need to figure a way to shelter the equipment that has been brought outdoors for cleaning and drying. The water at Piña looks pretty clean now.

Things are beginning to roll at Piña thanks to your help. I will be returning to LA next Wed. I hope to have a tape of short clips of the work at Piña before and after the event. If you have contacts with the media, I would like to share the Piña experience during the four weeks I'm in LA and try to rally more support in this way. Talk to you all later.

David Kendall Grant, M.S.Ed, Ph.D. Candidate
The Program of International Development/Intercultural Education
UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
School of Education
Department of Educational Policy, Planning and Administration
E-mail: dgrant@scf.usc.edu
URL: http://www-scf.usc.edu/~dgrant
S-Mail: c/o CAI Pina Palmera, Apartado Postal 109, Pochutla, Oaxaca, Mexico 70900.
October 16, 1977

Todo ha Sido Devastado por un Huracán Hoy 10.10.97

ATENCIÓN: NO QUEREMOS TIRAR ESTA OPORTUNIDAD, QUE EL SOL HOY NOS DA!! NUESTRA TIERRA NO SE VENDE!! NO QUEREMOS DOLLARES (dolores) AQUÍ!! NO QUEREMOS OTRA CONQUISTA!!! PORFAVOR!!! AHÍ ESTÁ CANCUN GRINGOS, :ES SUYO!!! NO NOS VEAN COMO EXTRANJEROS EN NUESTRA PROPIA TIERRA!!!!

VENGAN, VEAN, DISFRUTEN, PERO NO TRATEN DE CAMBIAR LAS COSAS AQUÍ, COMO SI ESTÁ FUERA SU TIERRA, PORQUE ESTÁ NO ES SU TIERRA!

Hoy tenemos la esperanza de que todo puede volver a empezar...

Ricardo
un Oaxaqueño mas
redes@hermes.uninet.net.mx
October 1997

Commercialization of Zipolite

David Parks
Nova Scotia, Canada
viajerofeliz@hotmail.com
October 1997

Hey There Zipol-heads!

Accommodations.
I have always stayed at the various huts that line the beach. The first time I stayed at Lyoban. The next couple of times I stayed at La Choza and the last time I was there I stayed at La Pacheca. La Choza used to be my favorite place but it seems to be getting too big and too commercial (I was there last in January '97). La Pacheca was fun. If you've been to Zipolite you probably know where I stayed. There is a small elevated room next to the bar at La Pacheca that you have to climb up to on a ladder. It looks kind of like a rustic lifeguard shack. The prices are still good, (40 pesos a night or about five dollars).

Great Places to Eat.
Lo Cosmico: At the end of the beach, before you get to Shambala you are at Lo Cosmico. Walk up the dark side of the mountain (it's more fun at night), follow the torches up to a landing and hang out. Specialties are crepes. They are yummy. Wash them down with a beer. The view from Lo Cosmico in the daytime is the best.

Nuevo Sol: Good place for late night snack since most of the restaurants close rather early. Pizzas are good (they are made in a clay oven). Again, wash them down with beer.

Mezcal
You may be scared at first but the best mezcal is sold in the little stands that line the road up by La Choza and 3 de Diciembre. Get a gallon for about two dollars. You have to bring your own bottle though. Get one and hang at one of the tables. Drink with a friend or someone who you just met and watch the sun go down.

My plan is to return for a few days sometime around Thanksgiving. It's hard for me to go very often since I now live in San Francisco. Is anyone going to be there around that time. Please share your stories. I would love to hear from you.

Mike
michael_loria@yr.com
July 1997

Travel Companion Wanted

This is the first time that I will be traveling that far into Mexico. If anyone has any info to contribute on this area it would be appreciated. I am going alone if I have to but would prefer to have a companion along.

Denton (Denny)
drjordan@ns1.iswt.com
July 1997

Hippies in Zipland

Now lets get to what scared me in Zipolite: The dogs. I hated all those yellow , one of a kind, scared and mean dogs. They are all over Mexico. The locals throw sand at them and they cower and growl. Mean and scared is a bad combination any way you look at it. Also, and very rightfully so, the surf. It was Killer. Four people drowned while I was there. I understand they now have lifeguards. Last, and in no ways least are the bug bites. The mosquitoes were not even touched by the three different repellents I brought. I also had to shake my clothes out every day to make sure there were no scorpions in them. There is a fly in Zipolite that comes from nowhere and like a kamikaze divebombs you and can take out a chunk which I still have a scar from.

Now, all that aside, I love Zipolite! After 3 days of the above horror I woke up and found paradise. The bugs no longer considered me an outsider (the food took care of that), the Mad dogs backed off, and the Mescal worked its magic. My days were spent in wonderland. The rains washed everything away. Those wonderful huge butterflies that were black with a bright pink spot hovered by the hundreds at the rain puddles. Those leafcutter ants (the ones that carry a big leaf part on their back) marched by the thousands over my path to the beach. My Indian friends back from the beach smoked big red ants and made salsa. I ate the best black beans and rice I ever had. There was a big gray bird with a long feathered tail that flew through the jungle without a sound. The rains poured and that red earth turned to jungle before my eyes. There was no electricity anywhere when I was there. The rains washed out the road to Gloria's the day I left. I carried my bags out on my head to cross the flooded roads. I caught a ride on the back of a chicken truck since the buses weren't running due to the rain. I arrived in Huatulco drenched and caught a plane to Mexico City. It was there in the comfort of my Ramada Inn that I found out a hurricane had passed the pacific coast.

And the people were wonderful. I especially hooked up with the the locals since I lived with a local for 6 weeks. But I really enjoyed just sitting at the posada (freshly raked) by day sipping coffee or whatever and watching the international freak show. Nothing mean intended as I loved all my conversations with all these people. It seems that the Europeans seemed to adjust to the environment better. Mexico is a wonderful Paradox. The grand Beauty and the Terror. Love that place!

Cyndy
CYNDY2MOON@webtv.net
June 1997

Hangin' Out

By day I would sit in my hammock and just observe the crowd or body surf the waves at the west end, at night the beach came alive. I sometimes wonder what has become of my friends from Zipolite. Some of them I ran into later in Guatemala & Honduras and I still get letters from them occasionally with foreign postage stamps, the rest I can only recall from pictures. I fell in love twice in Zipolite and I must admit the place rocked my world.

The Zip Rips.

Kevin J. McNeill
Chicago, IL
kmcneill@datalogics.com
May 1997

How Much is This Going to Cost?

Rate of exchange: $1 Canadian = 5.7p   $1 U.S. = 7.9p

Transport:

Collectivo from the Airport to Acapulco Bus from Acapulco for Puerto Escondido Bus from Puerto Escondido to Pochutla Taxi from Pochutla to Zipolite (please take the Collectivo it's just Collectivo from Zipolite to Puerto Angel Bus from Pochutla to Oaxaca Bus from Oaxca to Pochutla (first Class) Bus from Pochutla to Acapulco Collectivo from Zipolite to Pochutla

38p 78p 10p 40p 3p) 3p 45p 55p 92p 3p

Lodging:

Cheap hotel in Acapulco "La Mama Helena" Tent in Zipolite at "La Posada Brisa Marina" Cabanas in Zipolite with double bed at "Tao" Good Hotel with double bed and shower

60p 10p 50p 200p

Food in Zipolite: (you are supposed to give some tips to the waiter)

Breakfast dish Fresh Fruits dish Fish dish Other dish Pastry in Pochutla (very very good)

10p 25p 28p 15p 1p

Others:

Cafe Beer Pina-Colada Pepsi Fresh Juice (very good. banana, orange, carrot, beet) Bottle of water Cigarettes Hammock

3p 5p 14p 3p 5p 5p 10p 130p

The expense for our travel (me and my girlfriend) was:

Transport Lodging Food and drinks Gifts Others

170 $Can 149 $Can 320 $Can 214 $Can   48 $Can

It's very cheap, 450 $Canadian/person for two weeks with beaches at Zipolite and tourism in Oaxaca. Have a good travel.

Patrick Bergeron
pat@behaviour.com
May 1997

Zipolite en Cambio

Rubén Héctor Chanes Ortiz
chanes@telnor.net
April 1997

Changed My Life

I spent some time in Puerto Angel-Zipolite and some time outside Puerto Escondido. I had a car rented and really got to explore. I got to know Gloria's (of Shambala) brother, Danny, and he took me hiking to some property they have in the mountains where these rivers meet in the middle of the jungle. The scenery and swimming was awesome.

I got to know some wonderful folks. Hung out with some of the people who live out on the barrier beach of the Manialtepec lagoon (Puerto Suelo). These people are really caught in the middle; on the one hand, the ecologists rightly want to preserve the lagoon, but these people (many of them descendants of shipwrecked slaves) who have lived here for a few hundred years are now considered squatters. They have very few means to earn the currency they need to buy cornmeal. Do you know of anyone who is trying to help them? I would love to get involved. We "first world" people use (and waste) so many of the world's resources; it's seems so unfair that people who have lived in harmony with the land now have to bear the burden of conserving what little we haven't yet squandered.

Joan
martoraj@erols.com
March 1997

The Environment

DO SOMETHING TO KEEP ZIPOLITE AS NATURAL AS POSSIBLE.

In the 70's there was nothing but some palapas (huts) at Zipolite town beach (for the new ones this is at the east end), afterwards some hippies came to stay there and built up Shambala (or Gloria's House) and Lo Cosmico (or Antonio's house) and others like Pina Palmera etc. There were really good-vibes_hare-hare_flower-power_non-violence atmosphere places and the people wanted to stay just there. That's why they started to rent hamacas and so on...

Nowadays I wonder how those hundreds of people manage to handle the trash and sewage and all pollution. And what about all the trees and bushes that disappear by making new palapas and FIRES every night!

Its time to think about Zipolite's environment! If we want to have a place to enjoy a cheap and cozy holiday we have to clean up after ourselves. Don't leave your shit there because none of the people up there are going to move a finger for it. Its not worth the effort for the few pennies that you spent.

Mario
sunyam@algonet.se
March 1997

San Augustinillo, Mazunte, La Ventililla

I enjoyed your comments on the stay at Huatulco. Having known Puerto Angel and environs for over 20 years, I understand you disappointment in the deterioration and in the build-up at Zipolite. Next time you're down, why don't you try San Augustinillo and Mazunte, just a short ride up the coast beyond Zipolite? The lagoon at San Augustinillo is one of the prettiest ACCESSABLE spots on that part of the coast. Mazunte just past the turtle museum will remind you of the Zipolite you remember. And if you really want to get away from it all, La Ventinilla is just beyond Mazunte, and you can walk over six hours without coming to the end of the beach! Unless it is the turtle mating season, which brings soldiers to guard the eggs, you''re likely to see few if any fellow travelers. You can easily (and cheaply) rent a buggy from Peso's Rent-a-car on the zócalo in La Crucecita to get you to any and all of these places. They're all on the road through and past Zipolite. Enjoy!

John M Williams
Isharkbait@aol.com
March 1997

Side Trip from Huatulco

I'd enjoy hearing any comments from others that enjoy Mexico, particularly San Miguel de Allende, since I want to make a trip there on my next visit to Mexico.

Barb Oshanski
CADENCENT@aol.com
Toronto Ontario
February 1997

Hangin out

By day I would sit in my hammock and just observe the crowd or body surf the waves at the west end, at night the beach came alive. I sometimes wonder what has become of my friends from Zipolite. Some of them I ran into later in Guatemala & Honduras and I still get letters from them occasionally with foreign postage stamps, the rest I can only recall from pictures. I fell in love twice in Zipolite and I must admit the place changed my life.

The Zip Rips.

Kevin J. McNeil
Chicago, IL
kmcneill@datalogics.com
November 1996

Met the People of Zipolite

My friend Daniel Almanza is the manager of Gloria's Shambala. You can not miss this guy with his outgoing personality. You'll find Daniel there most of the a.m. hours taking an inventory of what is required by the restaurant. In the early afternoon, you'll find Daniel in Pochutla making the purchases necessary for Shambala. It is likely that in the afternoon, you'll find my friend Daniel working as a lifeguard on the beautiful Zipolite beaches. The guy is a workhorse that also has a penchant to party. Despite all of that work, you'll find my buddy having a good time with both locals and tourists. If you are an American football fan, make sure you have an in depth conversation with Daniel, who not only played, but understands the game more than anyone I know. Make sure that you tell him that Jason told you to look him up.

Next is my friend Mario who runs a subsidiary business of Shambala. His bar, La Crema, is located at the base of the cliff Shambala rests upon. Mario is a very accomplished musician. He knows the guitar and plays the blues with a Mexican twist unlike anything you'll encounter on your visit to Mexico. He is also an accomplished songwriter and you will hear the best Mexican acoustic blues music as you sit with strangers on that very secluded part of the Zipolite beach. Other than that, Mario is quite the entrepreneurial hellion. He and his brother opened the original La Crema in Huatulco. In addition, you'll find that Mexican pragmatic advertising (in spray paint form), for their bars in Puerto Escondido. Mario's generosity is second to none. In my ten-day visit to Zipo, Mario showed me an amazing virgin beach seven km. west of Zipo, and a hell of a good time in Puerto Escondido (where we dated the same girl). From the great place he showed me and my friends, I, being a novice snorkeler, ended up with about seven sea urchin spines in my left foot. However, I remember that amazing pool I snorkeled, that was perhaps only seen by twenty or thirty other tourists. By the way, this place is on the southernmost point of the mainland just south of Mazunte. In addition, Mario showed his ability to party on the day of Mexico's independence in Puerto Escondido (which happens to be my birthday).

There are a couple of other locals I should mention to you prospective travelers. One is a fellow who works at Shambala. His name is Ulyses. He proves to be one of the more generous guys I met while on vacation. Not only did he provide my snorkeling equipment but he and I made a trade of jewelry. He gave me a necklace wreathed with jade and an obsidian centerpiece in return for my watch (make sure you give him shit for that bad trade on his part). So should you see a decent looking waterproof watch, ask Ulyses where the hell he got it. The other guy you should look for is called Sergio. He is a skilled artisan that never pushes his work on anybody. As you know, this is quite amazing considering the touristic nature of the region and the psyche of any tourist area of trying to get money out of the tourist. I never bought any of his works (and I wish I had), but I encourage you to meet the good Sergio and get to know his very quiet personality.

I have no doubt left so much of my Zipolite experience out of this short synopsis. I can only encourage you to experience some of what I was fortunate to see. If you go there in search of nude bodies, I tell you that you'll be disappointed. I encourage you to take in the beauty of the nature and the fine people that live there.

Oh yeah, keep one thing in mind. There is plenty of scum that live there that wish to prey on the foolish tourists that visit. I ask you to seek those that I've mentioned to minimize the usual risk of travel by seeking out my friends that I've mentioned.

Jason Housel
jhousel@sprintmail.com
November 1996

Club de playa Lyoban

I highly recommend Zipolite to anyone needing to forget about everything for a bit.

Laura Warman
lwarman@solar.sar.net
November 1996

The Magic of Zipolite

One afternoon I met a group of chilangos [people from Mexico City] and we were talking the whole afternoon and by the evening we went to La Puesta; there we were dancing and drinking; at midnight I left them and went to sleep, on my way to the palapa I got lost and I couldn't find the way back to the beach. At this moment I was in the backyard of some palapa, suddenly a girl came out from darkness, I recognized her as a British girl who arrived to Zipolite in the same bus as me, so I asked her why she didn't catch us at La Puesta (in that afternoon she was with me and the chilangos), I commented her that we were expecting for her and she didn't know what to say, at this moment I realized that I was confusing her, I apologized and I explained to her that I was lost, so she helped me to get to the beach and then we kept talking the rest of the night. When I went to sleep it was 5 or 5:30 of the morning, but it still was dark, so I couldn't see her face when I said goodbye. Next day I don't know how I recognized her, but I spent the day and the whole night with her and next I left Zipolite.

I think that's the magic part of Zipolite, I know I won't see her again but it makes me wonder about destiny and compare it as lines that cross one on another.

If you have some question about Zipolite send me an email; by the way I'm going to be there on second week of December.

Enrique.
al165488@academ07.mty.ites.mx
October 1996

[Enrique, I couldn't get your email address to work. Please email me again so we can get this corrected. - tom@tomzap.com]

Casa Gloria, Estacahuite . . .

The place is like nowhere else I've ever been: beautiful, dirt cheap and peaceful. I highly recommend going to Estacahuite as well, a pair of tiny beaches facing a v-shaped cove with warm swelling water where you can snorkel for hours because the water temperature is so hot. I rented a pair of mismatched flippers and an OK mask, and stayed for about three hours in the water looking at tropical fish schools, underwater geological formations, corals, etc. At one point when I was almost entirely outside the cove I met a lobster catcher; the lobsters he was catching with his bare hands (and a small pick) were the size of crawfish, but since he suddenly appeared underwater in front of me his sudden apparition had me totally surprised. To get there you walk out of Pto. Angel on your way to Pochutla and follow the dirt road that says Estacahuite. Follow the road to the very end down to the cove. There are a couple of other palapas that serve food and probably rent out better gear than at the first where I took my business. But I was unaware until I was in the water, that next door there was another beach.

The trail behind Casa Gloria that leads to three long abandoned beaches is well worth it, but beware. I thought I was alone one afternoon when I got there (this was late September) and took off all my clothes and started running toward the water elated and thinking of Planet of the Apes when I turned around...and there was a father with a brood of four children behind me collecting seashells.

Paul De Zardain, New York
pauldz@spacelab.net
October 1996

About Zipolite

There just isn't a lot to do in Zipolite but sit on the beach and relax but then that is why I went there. If you want more action, then take the local bus to Puerto Escondido (1 hr) for about 15 pesos. Zipolite primarily consists of numerous thatched huts that are restaurants during the day, bars in the evening, and hammock houses at night. All are open air and right on the beach so you hear plenty of waves to make you relax. Both times that I have gone to Zipolite, I have stayed at Casa Gloria, otherwise known as Shambalaha, located at the very northern end of the beach. From Gloria's there is a beautiful view of the entire beach. Nude sun bathing is also very popular at the Gloria end of the beach as well for those who are interested. Gloria also has a very recommended restaurant that serves vegetarian dishes.

What is there to do during the day. You can easily walk or catch a ride to Puerto Angel to shop or buy a fish at the pier. What I have always enjoyed is a moderate hike on a trail that starts behind Gloria's. You can inquire at Gloria's for its location as it is not easy to locate without directions. This trail will take you along some undeveloped beaches to the small quiet town of San Augustine. Keep an eye out for a trail that goes off to the left - it descends a valley to the ocean. At the ocean there are two small but very beautiful beaches that are desolate. It is the perfect place for couples in love to shed their clothes and take a swim. From these beaches, you can walk the rocks along the ocean all the way to San Augustine. On my last trip, we were surprised to run into a patrol of 7 military soldiers who politely said hello and continued on.

Speaking of the military, there has been recent activity in the state of Oaxaca by guerrillas. So far, all attacks have been aimed at the government - specifically the police and the military. It is different than the activity that occurs in Chiapas. The best advice is to use common sense. Travel during the daylight hours, with plenty of people, and take as little cash as possible. You won't need a lot of cash in Zipolite anyway - it is very economical. There have been reports of roadblocks at night and holdups on buses at night - they are reportedly only looking for money though. At this point, it should in no way deter you from traveling to this beautiful area. Enough said.

As I said earlier, I was very surprised to see how much development had occurred since I visited in 1993. In 1993 about 2/3 of the beachfront was developed - on this trip in Aug 1996 that development had progressed to about 3/4 of the beach. I would venture to say that Zipolite will be very much like Puerto Escondido within the next 5 years. With the current value of the peso, Zipolite is an extremely affordable trip as accommodations are more to the liking of us budget/adventure travelers. If you have the opportunity to go, I highly recommend it, but just don't go when I am there again!!!! If anyone has any questions, please don't hesitate to drop me a line.

Paul Blevins
pmb4411@utarlg.uta.edu
pblevins@nch.com
August 1996

A Note about Robberies

Joseph Paul Parker
jpparker@scf-fs.usc.edu
August 1996

Paradise on a Budget

We also stayed near the beginning of the beach at Palapa Pescador. The owner Alburo is one of the lifesavers (yes, those waves are wicked so be extremely careful). Alburo brought several people out of the surf while we were there. Palapa Pescador has 4 private palapas where you can stay if you're with someone special.

Along with the sun and the people, the food is great! Fresh fish every day if you want it. There are now several more restaurants and the quality of the food has increased. The prime time to visit seems to be November thru March, although it was getting pretty hot by mid March. You can reach the beach from Mexico City by either taking a bus to Pochutla (13 hours) or flying to Puerto Escondido or Huatulco, then local transport to Pochutla-Puerto Angel-Zipolite. [see Transportation] Flying is much more expensive but it sure beats a long bus ride. Overall, Zipolite is the closest thing to paradise for the low budget traveler. Once you arrive, time stops and all of your worries float away.

Have fun in the Sun!

Sincerely,
Dave Aguirre and Beth Nixon
davebeth@gte.net
June 1996

Huatulco and Zipolite [see·poe·LEE·tay]

Sincerely,
Lloyd R.
drgonnab@ghgcorp.com
May 1996

Laid Back in Zipolite

Later, from locals, I discovered that Lupe's family was the family that started everything here in the early 60's. Local folklore also says that Zipolite actually means beach of Death. The story goes back hundreds of years to a time when The Spaniards would trade with local Indians. After the trading sessions it was common to have an all-out drunken fiesta. One time, however, a fight erupted between a Spaniard and a local. The Spaniards, cool-headed as they were, just up and massacred all the Indians. So bloody was it that Zipolite, beach of death, stuck throughout the centuries. Beach of Death is also fitting for a beach with a record number of drownings each year. But besides its dark past and ominous name, Zipolite is muy tranquilo. Travellers find cheap lodging, especially if you swing on a hammock, and cheap food. Most everyone there is European, and the mix of cultures is great. Nudity is normal, but definately not expected.

So if you want to experience the trip of a lifetime, go to Zipolite and discover all its secrets.

Sean Garcia
immortal@fix.net
March 1996

Zipolite 1995

The prices were cheap and ideal for vacationers on a budget (I rented a cabana on the beach for 20 Nuevo Pesos a night). Strung-out along the beach, were several hut-like eating establishments that served a variety of Mexican and non-Mexican dishes.

Zipolite is not as widely known as its neighbor, Puerto Escondido (an hour to the west) and thus attracts less people, making it ideal for those who want to live in simple, less touristic surroundings.

For those of you that like to explore, there is a wooded trail that follows along the jagged coast and leads to other, almost desolate beaches. The trail goes up and down, but for the most part stays high above the ocean, providing captivating views of the Sunset and Pacific Ocean. The wooded trail can be found by following the beach until one reaches the extreme west end where there is a hill (it's covered with rented cabanas). Beyond this hill is where the trail begins.

Anyway, besides the nude bathing, bonfires, drinking and hanging out with foreigners, Zipolite was a special place to visit.

MCOLLADO1@vaxc.hofstra.edu
March 1995

Cipolite (or Zipolite) Beach in the 1970's

My first trip to Cipolite was in the early '70s. A group from Cuernavaca headed for the beaches of Oaxaca. We stopped in Mihuatlan to watch a total eclipse of the sun. NASA and the Japanese where there as well as other official observers and a diverse contigent of flower-children from all over the world. A group of us all held hands and turned in a circle as the sun was eclipsed. As the light faded to dusk and started to return, the birds started to sing as if it where dawn all over again.

Later we contiued to the beach at Cipolite. Again there was a large group of hippies and other assorted children of the 60s. Most took to hanging out on the beach with no clothes. One time the soldiers came by to keep the peace. I remember the bemused face of one of them as this totally naked gringa put a flower in the muzzle of his rifle. They where actually pretty tolerant and just asked everyone to leave by a certain day and then they left everyone alone. Sorry to ramble on, but seeing that picture of the beach brought back so many memories. Thanks.

Daryl P. Williams
daryl@sunlabs.eng.Sun.COM
August 1995

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